RIP K-mart, wasn't willing to stoop as low while plastering on a fake smile.
Blew up my 30v 20a variable linear supply and finally opened it today. Diagnosis was as I thought, though I'm unsure if the controls are fine till I fix the main issue- the 6 output transistors failed short circuit. The driver transistor was fine, as was everything on the rectifier/combiner board. I'll likely still replace the driver, as it got cooked pretty hard too.
This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Jul 2 2021, 04:56
Kmart still going stronk here. I threw out a linear supply and it was as major pain in the ass as they wouldn't collect it as it was too heavy or something. edit: The most hipster retrowave medium is now GBA cartridges.
I knew that, saw a GBA pokémon game for $200 in a local game shop recently. I still have one Game Boy Advance video cartridge from forever ago. It sucked.
I knew that, saw a GBA pokémon game for $200 in a local game shop recently. I still have one Game Boy Advance video cartridge from forever ago. It sucked.
A lot of them a pirated copies too. Hipsters have started buying older games again so the price has gone up.
Unfortunately a water leak destroyed most of my old games. I think I have two systems that survived.
A lot of them a pirated copies too. Hipsters have started buying older games again so the price has gone up.
Unfortunately a water leak destroyed most of my old games. I think I have two systems that survived.
Water leak shouldn't ruin the PCB's unless it sat for ages and corroded, and even games with shit labels go for money.
I even found my VIC-20 submerged in a plastic tub full of water that had leaked in through the roof of an old industrial building. Smelled of sulfur.
Cleaned it out, bathed it, dried the pages of the instruction manuals with a hair dryer. It works.
I think my most valuable games that aren't Pokémon (I have almost every mainline game up through generation 4) are probably boxed Kirby's Adventure, unboxed Chrono Trigger with a tear in the label, unboxed Super Mario RPG with a very nice label, and maybe unboxed Phantasy Star IV/boxed Phantasy Star I. Sega games with the hard cases seem easier to find with boxes, though. I also have boxed Ys III, but I doubt anyone cares about that one, and boxed Startropics.
Startropics had that paper you're supposed to soak in water to reveal a code at one point in the game. My copy has that paper, apparently still un-soaked.
I'd need to check on Donkey Kong Country/Donkey Kong Country 2 and my N64 games, though. Also got no idea what my copy of Final Fantasy II (really IV) is worth now. Loose, with a great label. Also Link to the Past. I think later SNES carts are more prone to label wear.
A friend of mine has "Zombies Ate My Neighbors" for SNES. I'm a little jealous. Always liked that game but I absolutely never see it for sale locally.
Oh yeah, I also have a working GBA game shark. Apparently those are $100+ these days. They were $20 when they were new.
Sorry. Thought:
I reglued my headphones again today, I wonder how long the pads will stay on this time. Usually they last around a year or so before I have to glue them on again.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 5 2021, 07:56
I feel bad for ya. If I have spares of something you need I might be willing to send you one. But I don't have as many spares these days as I used to (I've been downsizing). Sold my last spare front loading NES a while back. My remaining one is in pieces at the moment but I think it'll work if I reconnect the RF modulator board (which doubles as a power supply). I mainly play on my composite-modded Famicom these days, even though my front loader outputs cleaner video. The famicom's just too cute.
Might have a spare playstation or two. I certainly have spare playstation parts (and spare modchips). Might have a model 2 genesis somewhere as well, but I need to investigate why its PSG sound channel is so weak compared to the rest of them. I replaced the audio amp and mixer circuitry on it, since it was one of the revisions with a horrible op-amp circuit (they were using the same amp circuitry for a CMOS version of their synthesizer as they were for the NMOS version), and it works great except the PSG is way too quiet. Not sure if it's because there's some resistor I forgot to remove, or if it's because of the ASIC the PSG's built into, or if something's damaged/wrong with my amp.
Other than the quiet PSG channel it works great, though. Might try to finally hammer that out.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 6 2021, 06:13
Sometimes reading this topic, I wonder when one participant will build a giant robot and get in the news. That's what I may do if I was into mechanical tinkering* like they are.
*I'm not sure that's the word I was looking for, but I will skip looking into a dictionary, I would probably get side-tracked
I still remember the day i was sitting on the floor watching TV when the SNES adapter started sparking and burned the circuit inside my console with smoke coming out and shit, RIP.
It's still inside a box all packed up, i walk past it every day ;_;.
I still remember the day i was sitting on the floor watching TV when the SNES adapter started sparking and burned the circuit inside my console with smoke coming out and shit, RIP.
It's still inside a box all packed up, i walk past it every day ;_;.
My nes rf adaptor did some weird shit when it rusted out.
I still remember the day i was sitting on the floor watching TV when the SNES adapter started sparking and burned the circuit inside my console with smoke coming out and shit, RIP.
It's still inside a box all packed up, i walk past it every day ;_;.
Power adapter or RF adapter?
If it was the power brick, the Super Famicom/SNES systems have a small fuse soldered inside them on the back left corner of the board (near the RF modulator, it bridges a gap on the edge of the PCB). If you get a new power brick, or find the correct swappable plug tip for a generic one, you may want to check the fuse with a meter sometime. Might or might not help, based on your symptoms, but definitely worth checking. I'd recommend not just bridging the fuse with a wire, since depending on whether that's the only thing that failed or not it might present a hazard or risk damaging more components if you don't use a fuse. I learned that the hard way with a PSOne (the small PSX variant), although I intellectually already knew it at that point and was just being reckless.
I often find them burned out on "for parts" consoles that work once the fuse is replaced. I got my Super Famicom for $6 plus $5 shipping from Colorado that way. Late-model Famicoms (ones with the VCCI certification on the underside) also had this fuse.
Unfortunately, the SNES has those retarded 4.5mm "game bit" screws, and they're recessed super-deep, so they can be a pain to remove if you don't have the right tool. I've sometimes done it by melting the ends of soft-plastic BIC pens, but getting the gamebit driver is a better solution. If you do, get a 3.8mm one as well to open NES/SNES/Game Boy game cartridges. The 4.5mm bit will also open up US-market Genesis games; my only JP-market Mega Drive game (Phantasy Star II) used a philips screw hidden under the back side of the label, though. Both sizes are generally very useful tools to have.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 7 2021, 09:19
What is the last thing you thought?, Tech Edition
Jul 1 2021, 19:27
