[X] My Assistant

Makes me wonder, how would one make a certain program avoid moving to swap without globally disabling swap?
I'm sure there's a way; I've just never bothered to look it up.

Never bothered to look it up either but my bets are on malloc family flags. It must be in syscall flags since cryptsetup can do it but something written in pure shell such as tomb cannot.

Never bothered to look it up either but my bets are on malloc family flags. It must be in syscall flags since cryptsetup can do it but something written in pure shell such as tomb cannot.

That seems likely to me, too.

I really wish x86 weren't the dominant architecture more than ever now that I'm in a computer security class and I have to stare at ugly extended-extended-8086 assembly code. M68K for instance would be amazing by comparison (since it's a cleaner ISA), or a RISC might even be preferable.

Debating on what to replace my dead-of-capacitor-plauge atx/bench supply with- an indentical Dell supply, an NOS old genric supply that meets my arcane requirements, or a used SuperMicro supply that does.
Arcaneness:
No top/bottom fans and minimal if any venting on these faces
-12V rail rated for 1.0A or better, +5VSB 2.0A or better
A rear panel switch is good, but not needed.

May get a SP450-RP or SP420-RP. No rear-panel switch, but fans at both ends, overtemp sensing, and it just looks the part. The former has a 35A of +12V as 15A, 15A, and 18A rails. The latter has 25A of 12V on a single rail. I have to imagine the SuperMicro/Ablecom supplies have much nicer caps in them, and are newer and less likely to be bothered by no load, or weird load combinations.

Dubs, sue me.
Getting a crash course in FreeCAD trying to design a better PSU bracket for my desktop to have laser/water cut, but waffling on how exactly I want it to sit.
Anybody have free CAD software or custom metalwork vendor suggestions?

I'm starting to think of putting my programming projects on GitHub, but I don't want to mix them with my existing more personal stuff.
It would have been so simple to just create another account to ensure things are separated, but of course shitty terms of services are against that, and I saw people saying they got banned for that in the past.

So the solution seems to be "organizations", but my issue is that I have no idea how that would look like in the end, and how to avoid leaks of things that would allow to tie together the 2 sides.
Such an unnecessary pain (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Debating on what to replace my dead-of-capacitor-plauge atx/bench supply with- an indentical Dell supply, an NOS old genric supply that meets my arcane requirements, or a used SuperMicro supply that does.
Arcaneness:
No top/bottom fans and minimal if any venting on these faces
-12V rail rated for 1.0A or better, +5VSB 2.0A or better
A rear panel switch is good, but not needed.

Oh hey, I use the same PSU, probably.

Also, my laptop parts came in; will be putting on a new palmrest and a lightly used "keyboard bezel" (basically the top half of the outer shell, which clips to the palmrest). Should help it feel a lot nicer, since one of the clips on my current one snapped and the current palmrest has a crack in it.

Anybody have free CAD software or custom metalwork vendor suggestions?

I'd love a metalwork guy, too; I want something like this to replace the cracked battery cover on my HP-28S. The springs for the batteries put too much pressure on the case and this is a perfect solution since mine's already cracked under the pressure.

As for CAD, I've never gotten good at anything really, but Sketchup works in wine if you're not trying to do anything particularly good.
I really would like to get good at librecad or freecad, though.

I'm starting to think of putting my programming projects on GitHub, but I don't want to mix them with my existing more personal stuff.
It would have been so simple to just create another account to ensure things are separated, but of course shitty terms of services are against that, and I saw people saying they got banned for that in the past.

So the solution seems to be "organizations", but my issue is that I have no idea how that would look like in the end, and how to avoid leaks of things that would allow to tie together the 2 sides.
Such an unnecessary pain (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

So use gitlab or something and don't let microsoft sell your data (though I guess you use Win10 so that ship has sailed).
Or just ignore the TOS.

Edit: Finished putting new palmrest and keyboard bezel on my laptop; also took the opportunity to swap keyboards between my X201 and X201 tablet so the tablet had the somewhat better feeling board.

Looks and feels like a whole new computer now, just because the panels aren't being held together with epoxy and hot glue and the seams between panels are relatively smooth now.\

Taking a moment to rubber cement one of the rubber domes on the keyboard back onto the membrane, since the one on the space bar came off a while back when I had to pop the cap off and it likes moving out of place. I've already done this on the other thinkpad's keyboard and it worked great there.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 17 2021, 23:15

I had an L305P (NH493), ATX power came out the bottom originally. I cut most of the wires out, and brought the remaining ones to a euro barrier block. Also 305W, but 1.0A of -12 and 4.0A of 5VSB, and I don't recall it having a Dell P6 connector. I kept the case of it and the power filtering, but couldn't find a switcher module with suitable specs and price to stick in.

I'm going with an SP-450RP as it has a much stouter 12V rail and was cheaper. Used server part prices wildly swing depending on if people price to sell, or just throw it eBay. 5V rail is weaker and no -5V, but these are non-issues. Honorable mention to the SP550-RP, but the weaker -12V isn't worth the extra +12V. Most anything that big actually wants 13.8V anyways. Banana jacks or binding posts instead this time would be neat, but undecided how fancy I want it. I guess I'm already being fancy by getting a server/workstation part instead of a consumer one. I am gonna stick a switch in to operate the Pwr_on line.


Doing the CAD on windows as my good machine is begrudingly mostly windows. I was planning on using Ponoko right now, and getting the plate in 0.8mm stainless- I think it'll cost about $36 shipped if that's the only part I buy. Not opposed to mild steel, but they don't offer it that thin. Was mulling over a nicer 2 part setup to make it sit flat- but tbh my ugly bracket works and the big bundle of thick ribbon cables keeps it from going far.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Feb 18 2021, 20:34

I had an L305P (NH493), ATX power came out the bottom originally. I cut most of the wires out, and brought the remaining ones to a euro barrier block. Also 305W, but 1.0A of -12 and 4.0A of 5VSB, and I don't recall it having a Dell P6 connector. I kept the case of it and the power filtering, but couldn't find a switcher module with suitable specs and price to stick in.

Mine doesn't have a Dell P6 on it; those are both normal SATA.
Wiish mine had -5v on it. I have to use a regulator on the -12v rail.

Not looking forward to the day when PSU's stop having a -12V rail, too.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 18 2021, 21:20

Facebook censored the entire country of Australia. The cabal is corrupt, who would have figured that.

Managed to make the tab key on one of my thinkpad keyboards stop popping off by bending a teeny metallic post on the lower edge of the scissor switch straight.

Edit: spoke too soon, tried to tweak it a wee bit more and ruined the board's base. Had to swap all the keys onto another spare board of mine which doesn't feel quite as snappy (maybe transferring the domes would fix this but that's kind of a pain in the ass to do).

Edit for real: noticed I hadn't posted this yet when I killed it like I thought I had.

At least it was an excuse to pull all the dirt and hair out of the board.

One of the pins on the connector on this spare board was bent and snapped off, but thankfully that was the one and only pin on the connector that wasn't connected to anything. Also, this spare board was a spare because I bought it listed as new on ebay ages ago and when it arrived it was quite definitely not "new," judging by the shiny spots and the sticky F12 key.

I cleaned it and it feels okay right now, but it's nowhere near as nice feeling as the board I wrecked. I did swap all the keycaps from that one though except for the F* row because those tiny scissor switches are a real bitch compared to the larger ones.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 19 2021, 09:21

In 2021, too long filenames/path names can still cause bugs :sigh:

Mine doesn't have a Dell P6 on it; those are both normal SATA.
Wiish mine had -5v on it. I have to use a regulator on the -12v rail.

Not looking forward to the day when PSU's stop having a -12V rail, too.

That thing there. The supply in my GX270 had one, I cut it + the trailing molexes off, and spliced in the +4 of a 20+4 ATX connector. Spliced on a longer CPU 12V pigtail as well.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Feb 19 2021, 16:22

That thing there. The supply in my GX270 had one, I cut it + the trailing molexes off, and spliced in the +4 of a 20+4 ATX connector. Spliced on a longer CPU 12V pigtail as well.

Its been years since I've done stuff like, these days i'd probably just buy another psu.

After building loads of computers for people, I both got better at putting them together but also lazier with modding.

My current comp exhausted all my efforts putting a custom waterloop in an itx build. If I did not have a leak tester it would have been impossible. You also need a ton of extra and very specific fittings to get everything to work which drives the price into the 'this is definitely not worth it' territory.

Custom loop for an atx case: $600-800
Custom loop for an itx case: Fuck

The quality of fittings have gone up a lot since ten years ago but.. the price... If you can buy all the fittings all at once from a local supplier then its not too bad but if you need rare or out of stock specific parts it gets dicey.

That thing there.

Ah, yeah. D'oh.
What is that even used for in stock systems? I don't remember at all anymore.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 20 2021, 03:18

Proprietary case and psu format. This is the same PSU I put a new inlet on while quarantined.
Some dell motherboards use the P6 connector, but I haven't personally seen one. You can buy adapters from sata to it, so they must be extant still.

Proprietary case and psu format. This is the same PSU I put a new inlet on while quarantined.
Some dell motherboards use the P6 connector, but I haven't personally seen one. You can buy adapters from sata to it, so they must be extant still.

I mean, I have an old dell motherboard and I have no idea what that connector was used for (I'm too lazy to dig it out).
That's the PSU that drove my machine for years (it started off as a stock Dell Dimension 4700 and evolved from there).

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 20 2021, 04:55

You can buy adapters from sata to it, so they must be extant still.

Still have a bunch in a draw. Used to be a common upgrade for people, they wanted more space, so just use that to womp in another hard drive.

Other way around. Turn a sata into a P6 for boards that need one.

Other way around. Turn a sata into a P6 for boards that need one.

Only did that like once, I was always worried that it could draw too much power on low quality multi-rail PSUs.

I should probably recap my Amiga's power supplies (one brick for the A590 hard disk drive/controller, one brick for the main system).

Since I had caps handy for it, and I was already opening it up to clean it out, I re-capped my Apple extended keyboard two days ago. Had to replace axial lead caps with radial lead ones, though, and while that's not the end of the world it does always sadden me a little bit. Not enough to spend more on axial caps, though.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Feb 20 2021, 23:52