Blah, ofc it takes 4x 80MM fans in little cradles, and the one I bought didn't have those or hot swap caddies. And my psu fits- but no mounting holes line up. I already voided the warranty with my fan mod, so tapping out a few more 6-32 holes isn't the end of the world. The cpu fan takes more current than the mobo header is supposed to do, so guess this gives me a chance to fix that while doing fan wiring.
Wonder how much I can recoup from selling the case's PSU, non-swap caddies, drive bay trays/fillers, and cpu shroud bracket.
One more thing about the WRT1900AC(S): If you want to use mesh networking, [github.com] you might not want to use it. Blame Marvell (and Belkin/Linksys for choosing them).
Since I don't care about mesh networking it's fine, but definitely something to remember when choosing a router.
Heh, thanks. I'll need to eventually replace my WRT54G but I'm worried about 70C. I live in a converted loft so I may end without a router in summer.
Still better than a TP-Link Archer, which has an overheating problem in ALL its releases. I miss the times when routers did not need 1000MHz CPUs.
Heh, thanks. I'll need to eventually replace my WRT54G but I'm worried about 70C. I live in a converted loft so I may end without a router in summer.
Still better than a TP-Link Archer, which has an overheating problem in ALL its releases. I miss the times when routers did not need 1000MHz CPUs.
Agreed on that last point. And the 1900AC _does_ have a fan built-in and runs at least 10°C cooler; also, the holes on top of the case on the ACS are large enough it'd probably be easy to just use some of those rubber fan mounting pegs to slap an 80mm fan on top. Since it uses a 12V DC adapter it'd be pretty easy to just power it from there. You could also run it through a voltage regulator or some diodes to step the voltage down if necessary. I can't find a proper datasheet that specifies the maximum temperature allowed for the Marvell part (I just blame Marvell for this). If you're going to look, the part is 88F6820 (Marvell Armada 385), I think.
Edit: They've got a broken or removed link to the document in question on their site and I found it mirrored on some random 'manuals' site. The URL at one point was [www.marvell.com] https://www.marvell.com/content/dam/marvell...ons-2017-03.pdf and the document number was 'MV-S108817-00'.
So theoretically it shouldn't overheat at 70-80° (max is 115° apparently). It actually has a similar temperature rating to the CPU in my Powerbook G4 (PPC 7447A). The temperature sensor measures the junction temperature, btw. Oftentimes that isn't a very accurate measurement (at least historically); I don't know how they implemented the sensor but often they have had a wide margin of error.
As an aside, something I really hate about american engineering companies is how half their measurements and documents are in metric/centigrade and half are in things like foot-pounds. Another thing I hate is the NDA's.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Nov 18 2020, 23:56
(IMG:[media.makeameme.org] https://media.makeameme.org/created/fascinating-9yi4oe.jpg) This is part of the message I managed to hold back myself from posting just now in answer to someone that said "I have an error" and "I have another error", but no error message or conditions to reproduce or more specific symptoms or anything. I swear technical support main tool would not be a screwdriver, manual, system repair/installation media or anything like that, but really a crystal ball🔮
I got some chemtronics brand desoldering that's full of dried rosin, and really finely stranded, and quite impressed with it's performance. A temp regulated iron that's higher wattage would probally aid with it more, but my weller wp35 is still serving me quite well enough, and no bulky base.
The thing is, I have a nice (but quite old) desoldering workstation for through-hole work (Pace MBT-210), but I need to get a new heating coil for the desoldering part of it and I keep putting it off because Pace gear is so expensive to replace, even when using third-party equivalent parts. I got the station for free though, so that's nice at least.
QUOTE(Wayward_Vagabond @ Nov 17 2020, 11:58)
Replacing my desktop's case with a Supermicro 743, and doing some related upgrades while I'm at it. Intel M1015 SAS/SATA raid card, and SAS/SATA backplane for it's drive bays. Think I worked out how to add usb 3.0 to the front panel, trying to decide if I need a headphone jack on the front. I think no for now, because I never used the old cases's one. Main thing I'm ambivalent on is if I'll need new fans, and how to go about mounting them all.
Eddy: Case was delivered today, and a pile of small parts should arrive Friday. Pics inbound once it's assembled enough to operate, and I get the cables neat.
I need to get a new (old) motherboard for mine so I can have more card slots. I think I'll just get a used Ivy Bridge-era H77 motherboard (like my current one, only full-ATX instead of µATX). My current case is full ATX, but when I built this machine I was using a Dell OEM µATX case so I had picked a motherboard accordingly. Currently I don't have enough slots for my PCI sound card, my PCI-X parallel SCSI controller (running in a 32-bit PCI slot), my PCIe GPU, my PCIe NIC, and a PCIe SATA controller all at once. New boards don't seem to have more than one PCI slot maximum, anyway, so it makes sense for me to stick with my current CPU, especially from an economical standpoint.
I'd like one more 80mm exhaust fan, just because I'm pretty sure I have more intake flow than I do exhaust at the moment and it gets pretty dusty in there after a while.
I don't use my sound card's header for the front of my case primarily because my Audigy 2 uses the old circa-2005 Dell proprietary connector, rather than HDA or even AC '97. Also, I find myself using so much I/O so frequently that my PC case is actually positioned so that the rear panel is more convenient to access than the front panel. The only thing I ever do with the front panel is burning optical media and reading floppy disks, anyway, neither of which I do very often (I mostly use SCSI to interface with my Amiga, and the only thing I really use optical media for nowadays is burning playstation discs).
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Nov 19 2020, 00:12
edit: Facespook got busted for spying on people whilst they are not on facebook and Mark Zuckerberg claims to not know about it. That seems to be the tech giants defense for everything. I have no knowledge of this illegal activity trololol.
Company: unauthorized individuals did it, so our company is not at fault.
I'm currently giving myself headaches over a special division algorithm. If the world was working right, I would have just found something on the net for that (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
The problem about being monitored too much is that your insurance companies will modify their premiums to be higher due to what they can see. Of course, they will NOT tell you that because they've always hidden behind the excuse of a private proprietary method. So, there might be people out there who have the same risks, but simply because one of those people had less privacy, the insurance company was able to obtain additional info which then resulted in higher insurance rates over the person who had less adverse info available.
The problem about being monitored too much is that your insurance companies will modify their premiums to be higher due to what they can see. Of course, they will NOT tell you that because they've always hidden behind the excuse of a private proprietary method. So, there might be people out there who have the same risks, but simply because one of those people had less privacy, the insurance company was able to obtain additional info which then resulted in higher insurance rates over the person who had less adverse info available.
In my country they claim that they reduce premiums for people that sign up for data tracking.
Positive: More data tracking means doctors can better treat patients and it is more likely for patients to comply with treatments and have successful outcomes.
Negative: Insurance companies are scum, so we have seen in the US that they use such data to kick people off policies so they can make more money.
The fine print says for car insurance with tracking in the US that your premium 'can't be raised'- but they can waive any discounts on it, and basically every auto policy has some discounts applied to it. Such policies tend to be rare and entirely voluntary- best I can tell, nobody us still pushing them.
Had to order a new CPU cooler, going from a coolermaster hyper 212 to scythe mugen 5. I had a quite powerful 120mm fan stuck on the 212 I'm just gonna move over.
The fine print says for car insurance with tracking in the US that your premium 'can't be raised'- but they can waive any discounts on it, and basically every auto policy has some discounts applied to it. Such policies tend to be rare and entirely voluntary- best I can tell, nobody us still pushing them.
Had to order a new CPU cooler, going from a coolermaster hyper 212 to scythe mugen 5. I had a quite powerful 120mm fan stuck on the 212 I'm just gonna move over.
Some of my family members sell insurance; this is just the way it goes in the States. They don't like it either.
I'm still using a stock Intel cooler on my desktop; it is at least still one of the older kinds with the copper slug in the center (from 2012), though, so it's not as bad as the later ones which are pure aluminum.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Nov 22 2020, 19:54
I have it overclocked a bit, but I also bumped the voltage down- that actually yielded me lower core temps than stock settings. I'd like to keep a chonk tower cooler though, if for air flow reasons and making sure it doesn't act less stable if it gets hot.
Mugen 5 looks nice, but need a new backplate. I didn't keep my OEM one, the Mugen only included an intel one, and the Hyper212 one isn't compatible.
It has been a while since I last opened the same tab between 2 and 5 times in a single middle click. I guess it really was a software bug that got fixed, and not a hardware issue of the mouse.
You could also have worn the corrosion or contaminant off of the switch by repeated use. I've seen that happen before. It actually happened on one of my keyboards with Alps switches.
The fine print says for car insurance with tracking in the US that your premium 'can't be raised'- but they can waive any discounts on it, and basically every auto policy has some discounts applied to it. Such policies tend to be rare and entirely voluntary- best I can tell, nobody us still pushing them.
Had to order a new CPU cooler, going from a coolermaster hyper 212 to scythe mugen 5. I had a quite powerful 120mm fan stuck on the 212 I'm just gonna move over.
They still have policies with the trackers here, I was wondering about that. Seems pretty obtrusive you get a 10% discount but it tracks driving speed and g force.
I built so many computers with Coolermaster hyper 212, such a good value heat sink.