QUOTE(Scumbini @ Aug 17 2020, 14:42)

I assure you, I am and will continue to. I love this thing
A while back I managed to snag myself a Sony PVM20M4U for my old consoles, you really can't beat a good CRT for retro gaming. RGB cables and output mods are just the icing on the cake.
I have a PVM-20L5 here, but I actually prefer my Panasonic BT-H1390YN and Commodore 1942 for most things. The 20L5 is good for playing with others though, because it's larger.
Treasure that 20M4U though; it's another of the really desirable/good ones (along with the 20L5, apparently). Hope you got a good deal on it. It's probably just going to go up in value as more people learn about the pro trinitron meme (they're good sets, but the prices are getting crazy now. I blame youtubers).
I might be a little biased because my screen saw a lot of use before I got it and isn't as bright as it probably used to be. It is my only screen with SMPTE-C phosphors, too, which are naturally not as bright as P-22 ones.
I didn't buy RGB cables; I just drilled holes in most of my stuff and added RCA jacks and then used component cables plus one extra for sync. Those RGB cables (especially the ones that go through SCART) are expensive.
With the Mega Drive/Genesis and the Master System I had to buffer my sync signals, since they output an open collector csync. I just used 7408 (or 74LS08, 74HC08, you get the idea) chips with the inputs tied together.

Since taking that pic I also added an S-video output to the genesis. it looks good; not quite as good as RGB or S-Video from a late model SNES/PSX, but still much better than composite or RF.

The Playstation is nice though in that you can use a guncon adapter (SCPH-1160, for instance, or the Namco one, to break out a sync signal) and a PS2/PS3 component cable (for RGB) to avoid doing any modifications. You can also do this with the PS2, actually, although that can output good quality YPbPr so it might not be strictly necessary.
In fact, if you have a launch PSX (SCPH-1000/3000/5000 in japan, or SCPH-1001/1002 in america and europe), a developer unit, or the rare SCPH-5903 (the one that can play VCD's), you can use the built-in RCA jacks on the back of the system for sync.

I modded my launch system (October 1995 part codes, November 1995 manufacture sticker) to output s-video luma over the yellow jack just for a slightly cleaner sync.
My launch system was free, and all the screw posts are broken so it's held together with hot glue. I also replaced the PSU with a newer one since I could see heat discoloration on the original's board and I also replaced the disc drive with one from a late-manufacture system (from 2000). So if you notice it looks kinda bad that's why.
You may also notice the rubber feet I added. I think they helped a lot; before I started using them my consoles would slide around a bunch. IDK what Sony was thinking using felt pads on the early PSX's and hard plastic on the later ones.

I did a similar mod inside my guncon adapter.


QUOTE(Scumbini @ Aug 17 2020, 14:42)

Can't say I'm surprised, but still disappointed. I've had good experiences with Latitudes in the past, I know I recommended them to some friends and family that asked, but like I said before I'm working with old info. Seems like 16:9 is just about the only option on screens in general nowadays, shame, I liked 16:10.
My newest latitudes are from around 2007, and they have the old thinkpad keyboard layout (except ctrl key is on the bottom left corner instead of fn). I quite like them. But I do feel like from my short observations the newer latitudes are still built to a decent thickness and out of good materials.
For me, ideal would be 4:3 or 1:1. But I do prefer 8:5 (16:10) over other things that are obtainable (those japanese-only Panasonic notebooks notwithstanding). It's one of a few reasons I've stuck to my X201 tablet instead of getting the X220 tablet which has better performance.
If that Eizo 1:1 panel (EV2730Q) wasn't so ungodly expensive, I'd have one for my desktop and never have to rotate my display ever again.
QUOTE(Scumbini @ Aug 17 2020, 14:42)

I actually check from time to time out of morbid curiosity, so far I'm clean and it's been a year. If I get bored enough I'll dig up my Nexus 6P and check that as it served a couple of years more but so far so good.
Scratch that, under grey I can faintly see some shadowing.
RIP.
---
Last thought:
Haven't done this in ages, but I'm building wine-staging from sources and had to do a dist-upgrade on my 32-bit chroot. It's taking quite a while.
Since it's just a chroot, though, I have no qualms with using '-o Dpkg::Options::="--force-overwrite"'.
Just put another new-ish hard disk in my desktop; mounted it in a floppy drive bay for lack of other available space. It really is so quiet compared to my ol' reliable drive (the one from 2005 I've never stopped using). I'm certain that drive's always been that loud, though, so I'm not super worried. I remember thinking it was loud when I first got this machine, even.
---
Interestingly, the PATA version of my oldest HDD in my current desktop goes for about four times what the SATA version does on ebay. (ST3500630A is PATA, ST3500630AS is SATA). That's a shame.I was going to just grab one of them for my PS2 (since mine's just been so darned reliable), but I guess I'll use a 2.5" SATA disk and a (desktop-pinout) PATA adapter instead.
This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 17 2020, 23:38