[X] My Assistant

It's made by people that believe the internet to be "a bunch of pipes"

A series of tubes if you will.

Thought (only sort of tech related):
A friend of mine wants to use Gamecube controllers for Smash Bros. Ultimate, but he never had a gamecube or wii growing up.
Nintendo of America, being wise as usual, is making it ridiculously hard to get one of their new ones sub-$60 (basically they just aren't shipping enough here; Amazon Japan has plenty at around US $35, but the shipping really kills it), and we're having trouble finding any used in pawn shops/local stores.
The one pawn shop that had a couple of them refused to sell them to us, because they were wavebirds and they knew they would make more money on them by selling on ebay.
Fuck capitalism. And also fuck ebay.
The store has one of those smarmy "support local business" stickers on the door just to rub it in that it isn't providing a service for the local community because it'd rather maximize profit.

I have four controllers (one of which is a wavebird that I got free w/o a battery cover btw), but I got most of mine years ago when you could go into an EB Games/Gamestop and pick out any color you wanted of them used for ~$15 each (around a year after the Wii launched, at most). It's just super aggravating that:
1) prices for the goddamn gamecube are rising (I hate getting older)
2) Nintendo can't just get its goddamn act together and supply more of the controllers, or just enjoys watching speculators ruin more of their stuff for non-nihonjin fans (kind of like what happened with earthbound; it's still dirt cheap if you can read Japanese (Mother 2), and despite what people say it isn't even significantly rarer in the states; 2/10 rarity at best).

I play melee (not at a very high competitive level or anything; mostly just because I always slightly preferred its feel to Brawl and newer, even when I was completely ignorant of the game's competitive scene), so I am not giving away my controllers. I do take them with me if I play with him though, which is why he decided he wanted GC pads. It also helps that switch controllers suck.

I also know the new pads Nintendo makes feel different than the old ones and have different stick mechanisms; one of my controllers is a white one I imported from Japan at the same time as a Famicom, during the Smash 4 years. It's a bit tighter than I really like but it's still okay I guess. All my older controllers were made by Mitsumi but I don't think this one was. No branding anywhere inside.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 25 2020, 05:14

Damn bank send me a message on a *BLEEP* phone, and to connect on Internet site, it send me a DAMN code by sms on the *BLEEP* phone. (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
IF THEY KNEW WHAT I WANT TO DO TO THEM WITH A PHONE (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) , but luckily, I try to not know it myself.
...
Another thought: if there was, like an alcool/tiredness detector for cars, a system to prevent you to misuse your computer when your state of mind is unusual, maybe I could use one right now (something got on my nerves and it's spilling, must be careful in my next posts)

The touch screen in my CF-18 stopped working in windows 7 and windows XP (I rarely use this one, just booted to test it). A stylus didn't fix it, and I'd have to buy a whole parts machine to get a screen/cables.

Lesson learned. Don't initiate search while a torrent is active on a 5400prm hard drive. Or just switch to DDG temporarily.

(IMG:[live.staticflickr.com] https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50060050121_1ff73b2ae4_o_d.png)

The touch screen in my CF-18 stopped working in windows 7 and windows XP (I rarely use this one, just booted to test it). A stylus didn't fix it, and I'd have to buy a whole parts machine to get a screen/cables.

Assuming you checked continuity on anything you could? It might just be a power line or ground; IIRC the wacom penabled digitizers are all using an internal serial port of some sort.

Ripped a couple blu-ray's today by just running a SATA cable between an old blu ray player's disc drive and my PC (and installing libaacs). "Caddyshack" was first.

Wish I knew a good way to just rip the original files (but in decrypted form) like 'vobcopy' can do for video DVD's. And I also wish handbrake didn't exist so i could stop seeing that dumb shit in my search results.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 30 2020, 06:58

I wonder if there's an image I could display, take pictures of my screen in every color mode of my screen, then show the results, to know if my screen display is really normal, or if there could be something wrong with the screen/cable/other (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

No, I've not even opened up the machine. I need to get a service manual for it, the main body has screws coming in from all 6 sides, seals, etc in it.
I'm assuming it's some manner of hardware failure or maybe a cable- touch went from perfect last time I used, to not even trying to work.

What's wrong with Netgear's networking devices?

It's made by people that believe the internet to be "a bunch of pipes"

Just a couple of days ago: [blog.grimm-co.com] SOHO Device Exploitation

(IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by chriseras: Jul 1 2020, 00:39

Need to dig up my PC components' TDP to find a UPS battery that fits it.

I wonder if there's an image I could display, take pictures of my screen in every color mode of my screen, then show the results, to know if my screen display is really normal, or if there could be something wrong with the screen/cable/other (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Best way is to display the same image on your screen and a known good one.

Also it depends on what exactly you suspect the problem is, but there are test patterns for a reason. Lots of test patterns.

If you just are noticing dithering, a gradient from black to white should help Note that a lot of panels use dithering with six bit color depth to save money (one of mine included), although in practice my desktop's panel does a good enough job of it that I never notice.

On my laptop, I have noticed it exactly once.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 1 2020, 05:56

I wonder if there's an image I could display, take pictures of my screen in every color mode of my screen, then show the results, to know if my screen display is really normal, or if there could be something wrong with the screen/cable/other :unsure:

Check your monitor's menu options.

Your LCD monitor may have come with an option in its built-in menu to adjust the screen display to best fit the environment it is used in. With that, there are adjustments for fluorescent lighting, daylight, dim rooms, and more. It also has built-in pictures to help show up if there are dead pixels. Mine also comes with a feature close to what you wanted, but the way you described it, an external device would be needed to measure the pixel intensity for calibration purposes (e.g. Pantone color standards in a large scale printing shop). My monitor has an approximation method which has one half of the display show a reference image calibrated from the factory. The other half of the screen shows the color (R, G, or B) as I have set the controls. The instructions are to adjust the colors until my setting matches the factory calibrated display under the current environment lighting I am using that monitor.

This post has been edited by Anime Janai: Jul 1 2020, 16:38

Check your monitor's menu options.

No luck with that.
It's hard to describe exactly the issue, maybe saying "some colors shine too much or not enough" in some modes, or "near colors start blending in some modes", and "modes give very very different results".
I thought that taking pictures of my screen with all the modes on a same picture, that show various kind of lights/gradients/who know what that could reveal many twists of how a mode display things, could help know if there really is a technical issue.
But I strongly feel like I'm failing to properly tell about my issue...or I just don't understand the answers...possibly both (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Colour representation is a difficult problem. All monitors/printers/whatever fail to represent all colours of human perception because the human gamut of colours cannot be efficiently represented in an easily calculable shape (it must be easily calculable to be implemented in hardware).

Moreover, the full gamut varies from person to person. Therefore a colour configuration that "feels right" for you *is* the best configuration you can possibly get.

Various tech tubers use an online site to calibrate or to check for dead pixels, i forgot the site though but i remember seeing Linus from LTT using it.

Maybe find their discord/forum and ask there?


If you want a harder answer then buy a hardware sensor to check, i forgot what those are called too but you stick it on your screen and then run a test to keep cycling colors and in the end the software tells you what's off/wrong.

I eyeball my monitors well enough that when I stuck a colorimeter on my desktop's it was pretty damn close already.

I hate when some TV's (especially pre-OSD tube sets) are biased for a 9300°K white point though; it throws everything off.

I also calibrate TV's using color bars and eyeballing usually; my nicer sets have a "blue only" button that works wonders without requiring me to open up the set and turn off the red/green electron guns.

Left set was a decently calibrated pro set from 2002, the right was a consumer Apple IIe composite monitor built in 1987 after I eyeballed it by comparing to the properly calibrated one. It still never looks quite right in practice (greens and yellows especially look slightly off, and if I tweak the phase dial to make them right other things get thrown off) but I'm happy to blame both NTSC (for being shitty and drifting) and also Apple (for using a 9300°K-ish white point) and the age of the sets.
Additionally, they may not even use the same phosphors. In fact, they likely don't.
Also when I play NES/Famicom games the NES outputs a very non-standard subcarrier waveform so basically I can't really expect any set to behave in any particularly reliable way with it.
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/Ie3e0xfg.jpg)
You can't see it in the picture probably, but the PLUGE is in fact correctly displayed.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 2 2020, 07:48

Colour representation is a difficult problem. All monitors/printers/whatever fail to represent all colours of human perception because the human gamut of colours cannot be efficiently represented in an easily calculable shape (it must be easily calculable to be implemented in hardware).

lel did you see the pixel of death problem on android products recently. I'd post the image but it might brick some phonesi f they weren't patched lol.

lel did you see the pixel of death problem on android products recently. I'd post the image but it might brick some phonesi f they weren't patched lol.

Wish my Verizon bootloader-locked Pixel 2 XL were still in warranty; I'd do this just to get an unlockable one from Google (lots of people warrantied their VZ phones and got unlockable ones from Google)

I've never installed a single software update on it, in the hopes that some day an exploit will be found to allow me to bootloader unlock (that's right, I am purposely leaving my phone vulnerable).

No plans to get a different phone though, I hate using the one I have anyways so I don't want to consoom additional product and encourage the bastards.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 2 2020, 09:07

I thought there would be a bootloader already?

Somehow touch started working again in 7 after installing an HP printer driver. I'm not sure if it's a bad connection, or a button/key combo I don't know about toggling that.
Related to that, I had a hell of a time getting wifi to work on a laptop once. The default setting for the wifi radio was off, and I couldn't get anything to enable it.

No luck with that.
It's hard to describe exactly the issue, maybe saying "some colors shine too much or not enough" in some modes, or "near colors start blending in some modes", and "modes give very very different results".
I thought that taking pictures of my screen with all the modes on a same picture, that show various kind of lights/gradients/who know what that could reveal many twists of how a mode display things, could help know if there really is a technical issue.

My monitor addresses everything you said. I use the remote and select the menu and go to SETUP. I pick the lighting environment such as daylight, fluorescent, incandescent, etc. Then I have various tests I can perform which use the monitor's hardware to display only the red pixels (leaving all other pixels dark) and does that for other pixels and also makes the screen white in order to look for any dead pixels. Ignoring tests, the choosing of environmental lighting plus basic initial settings for a control environment prior to doing more tests already addressed your concerns with "some colors shine too much or not enough". It then takes me through brightness settings which cannot be done by simply displaying a picture. That's because the monitor hardware now displays a calibrated brightness image (set at the factory) using its hardware on a portion of the screen. On another portion of the screen is shown the same image using the current brightness settings. I am now told to adjust the brightness to try to make the images match each other. This is done for each RGB color. So, this tries to give "equal outcome" on results. It is different from pantone color standard settings which would need an external device connected to the computer that you hold over the screen to read the color intensity and hue. Pantone is for print shops and pro artists that must make images whose colors (saturation and hue) match the printer so that the printed output from the printer looks exactly the same as what the artist drew or adjusted using photoshop.

I have a contrast setting test too in that monitor. There are also convergence tests that display diagonal lines inside a rectangle that fits exactly in the monitor screen. After buying the monitor and setting up the monitor, the user is urged to do these setup things to verify the monitor is performing properly. For example, the drawn image must be visible and centered in the monitor display or else the monitor should be returned as defective.

Your concern about similar shades of the same hue blending in with other colors is addressed in my monitor's setup software. Besides setting the initial contrast for the lighting environment, part of the brightness and the contrast tests are to help the user make sure that similar shades are distinguishable. Once again, the user is urged to perform settings so that the various shade gradations marked as 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10% are distinguishable from each other. Drawing from this experience, perhaps you can find such an image somewhere and then try to adjust your monitor so that you can see the shading differences.