[X] My Assistant

Hopefully the Sheeple won't just follow the Wintendo Sheepleherder. Sadly I fear that the most feasible alternative to that is a big exodus to Apple iOS rather than to something as rock solid as Linux, and gamers shifting to PS4 and XboneX which is even worse than PC/Win10 (no ability to mod).

Sometimes the only way to win is not to play.
Wait for something better.

I hope backwards compatibility for PS5 with PS4 (including discs) is 99.9% certain by December so I can make right decision, between buy now or wait for PS5.

People are so eager to get consoles that pretty much don't exist on the market yet/have no content.

I haven't spent more than $100 on a console. Ever.

And maybe I should specify; when I said "wait for something better" I meant actually wait for a product with 'ethics' to eventually emerge. if that takes a decade or never comes, so be it. I can play used games and not give them any more money, and I can also just read a book.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 6 2019, 09:46

People are so eager to get consoles that pretty much don't exist on the market yet/have no content.

I haven't spent more than $100 on a console. Ever.

And maybe I should specify; when I said "wait for something better" I meant actually wait for a product with 'ethics' to eventually emerge. if that takes a decade or never comes, so be it. I can play used games and not give them any more money, and I can also just read a book.

You talked about making a "weaboo mode" PS1 controller earlier; being able to swap the buttons like that is one of the biggest considerations I have, i.e. in choosing whether to get a NA or JP model PS4, et cetera.
It's also the case that software hacks are easier to come by in early model consoles, hence the idea of getting (close to) launch PS5 instead.

I made a huge mistake buying the 200mm Bitfenix fan. I should've checked first whether the fan was compatible my PC case (CM Storm Enforcer). Those additional screw holes prevented the front panel from snapping back in.

(IMG:[66.media.tumblr.com] https://66.media.tumblr.com/70640270abb2827d50c2c06ceb0edf06/ae2acd83e883f522-0a/s640x960/b918064414d0f6f0e5443138044c3c2b47a016bd.jpg)

What's the best of those 2 plagues: a mouse with a comfortable, but randomly without effect left button, or a mouse with a left button that get stuck, but probably would always work as long as you push with extra strength?

What's the best of those 2 plagues: a mouse with a comfortable, but randomly without effect left button, or a mouse with a left button that get stuck, but probably would always work as long as you push with extra strength?

I use an old logitech mouse from 15 years ago.

The cable is damaged and used to disconnect my usb mouse from time to time and the right mouse button also didn't register clicks 90% of the time.

I "fixed" both by opening it up and twisting the cable inside the mouse housing so the cables inside the cord kept making contact and i put some wet mushy toilet paper in the hole for the right mouse clicker so it had more height to make contact, works fine now.

I use an old logitech mouse from 15 years ago.

The cable is damaged and used to disconnect my usb mouse from time to time and the right mouse button also didn't register clicks 90% of the time.

I "fixed" both by opening it up and twisting the cable inside the mouse housing so the cables inside the cord kept making contact and i put some wet mushy toilet paper in the hole for the right mouse clicker so it had more height to make contact, works fine now.

Sorry MacGyver, but that may be too much for me (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

What's the best of those 2 plagues: a mouse with a comfortable, but randomly without effect left button, or a mouse with a left button that get stuck, but probably would always work as long as you push with extra strength?

Instead of choosing an old tired plague, choose a new plague instead. There are lots of new mice under $5 each. The key to finding these is to scroll to the bottom of the walmart.com computer mouse webpage for the clearance deals. I'm not recommending the mice below because I'm a big fan of those Microsoft Intellimice of which I still use today as they work with replaceable rechargeable batteries. Any wireless mouse that doesn't have replaceable batteries sucks. Once the battery starts to wear out and doesn't hold a charge, it has to be thrown away since replacing the battery costs as much as buying a new mouse.

Main walmart computer mice page:
[www.walmart.com] https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/wireless-laser-mouse

$3.89
[www.walmart.com] https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-USB-Optic...thcpid=37463506
$3.99
[www.walmart.com] https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-Black-Opt...hcpid=574694387

You talked about making a "weaboo mode" PS1 controller earlier; being able to swap the buttons like that is one of the biggest considerations I have, i.e. in choosing whether to get a NA or JP model PS4, et cetera.
It's also the case that software hacks are easier to come by in early model consoles, hence the idea of getting (close to) launch PS5 instead.

or wait a few months for a used one to show up?

I made a huge mistake buying the 200mm Bitfenix fan. I should've checked first whether the fan was compatible my PC case (CM Storm Enforcer). Those additional screw holes prevented the front panel from snapping back in.

(IMG:[66.media.tumblr.com] https://66.media.tumblr.com/70640270abb2827d50c2c06ceb0edf06/ae2acd83e883f522-0a/s640x960/b918064414d0f6f0e5443138044c3c2b47a016bd.jpg)

You could always just cut them off with a knife/dremel if you wanted. Alternately it may be possible to transfer the motor and blade assembly into the old fan's frame.
And I just want to say your new profile pic makes me highly uncomfortable.
I know I can't make you change it, but if that was your intent you have succeeded.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 9 2019, 23:58

What's the best of those 2 plagues: a mouse with a comfortable, but randomly without effect left button, or a mouse with a left button that get stuck, but probably would always work as long as you push with extra strength?

Instead of choosing an old tired plague, choose a new plague instead.

I had a mouse with an intermittent button. I fixed that by taking an old PS/2 three button generic no-name chinese mouse I had and desoldering one of it's switches and then soldering it into the newish mouse. Almost every mouse I have seen that's been made in the last 30 or so years uses the same switch form factor and nearly the same (if not identical) force for actuation. The only mouse I have that doesn't use those kinds of buttons is my Amiga's, and that uses even more generic square tact switches. My original mac's mouse used the same kind of switch I could find in a new logitech mouse at best buy nowadays.

I like the leftmost one here myself. Optical, corded with a very flexible (not stiff) cable. has a velcro strap so I can hold the cord together if I need to take it somewhere. Generic switches (but I've not had to replace these ones yet).

IBM made these things for years and lenovo still makes them. I just wish mine had the IBM branding on it…
They have a PixArt sensor but I forget which one. I think it was called the "Thinkpad Travel Mouse" when I bought it.

And I just want to say your new profile pic makes me highly uncomfortable.
I know I can't make you change it, but if that was your intent you have succeeded.

Finally! Someone gets it! (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Finally! Someone gets it! (IMG:[invalid] style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I had always thought (right or wrong) that the creepy feeling people get is a remnant of ancient animal instincts deep in the brain. As in a psychological effect especially if up close the caveman sees larva wiggling in each hole (burrow) that they made in a carcass that they happened across. If so, a lot of holes means the meat is not good to eat.

There is a creepy doujin about holes too. Is it good to look at in this Halloween season? I know there is an english-translated version, but I was too lazy to search further than the 1st page where this korean version was found.

[Machino Henmaru] The Holes (korean)
https://e-hentai.org/g/632228/27fb92a8a0/

I use an old logitech mouse from 15 years ago.

The cable is damaged and used to disconnect my usb mouse from time to time and the right mouse button also didn't register clicks 90% of the time.

I "fixed" both by opening it up and twisting the cable inside the mouse housing so the cables inside the cord kept making contact and i put some wet mushy toilet paper in the hole for the right mouse clicker so it had more height to make contact, works fine now.

That's a solution I appreciate for the ingenuity. I'd have probably used some solder on the cord, and used a dab of hot glue/superglue instead of paper for the spacer element.

I had always thought (right or wrong) that the creepy feeling people get is a remnant of ancient animal instincts deep in the brain. As in a psychological effect especially if up close the caveman sees larva wiggling in each hole (burrow) that they made in a carcass that they happened across. If so, a lot of holes means the meat is not good to eat.

There is a creepy doujin about holes too. Is it good to look at in this Halloween season? I know there is an english-translated version, but I was too lazy to search further than the 1st page where this korean version was found.

[Machino Henmaru] The Holes (korean)
https://e-hentai.org/g/632228/27fb92a8a0/

Yeah, I read that one years ago.
Still can't quite get into it.

I replaced the floppy drive in my Amiga 500 yesterday; unfortunately it sits lower than the original and the eject button is placed in the wrong spot so I still have to do some meditation on how to make it seat better in there.
Still, it works now and doesn't shred floppy disks. And this drive is also 15 years newer than my old one, so hopefully it'll last a similarly long time. It's from a 2005 IBM server, so it's not seen too much usage.
Suggestions on how to improve the fitment, anyone? (note the eject button spot in particular; not too worried about raising the height since hot glue dabs will do that.)

…And the Alps Electric DF354H192G floppy drive mod:

• Cut below pin 5 on the IC, or lift pin 5. This is "disk change" which needs to go to pin 2 of the floppy connector instead of pin 34. Run a wire from the test point "RD" (disk ready) to connector pin 34.
• Cut also the lead between floppy connector pin 2 and IC pin 19. wire IC pin 5 (which was lifted/disconnected earlier) to connector pin 2.
• Jump the density detection pad (HD2) to a ground point so all disks are seen as double density.
• Remove solder from the jumper pad "DS1" and bridge "DS0" instead, so the drive identifies as ID 0.

A final tech thought: I'm playing the unofficial re-translation of Breath of Fire 2. I like its translation a lot, but hate the other gratuitous changes they made to the menu UI. Wish there was some middle ground.
But the new translation thing runs a checksum on the ROM to make sure their rom hack hasn't been further hacked, so that's a turn-off to trying to fix anything.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 12 2019, 04:36

I replaced the floppy drive in my Amiga 500 yesterday; unfortunately it sits lower than the original and the eject button is placed in the wrong spot so I still have to do some meditation on how to make it seat better in there.

In ancient times when I still breadboarded as well as used phenolic boards full of HOLES with 0.100 spacing, once I had used a piece of board as an offset spacer in a makeshift temporary mount. Think of it this way, first the board is cut to the offset size desired which still fits in the cavity space. The board has HOLES drilled in it for where the drive will be fastened to the board with screws which will screw into the mounting HOLES in the front third of the floppy drive. There are additional HOLES (or even slot) in the phenolic board where screws contact either a floating nut or a captive nut formed by epoxying a nut to the board. If you do NOT have enough room for a nut, you can make a ONE TIME use artificial nut from epoxy. To do this, drill a wide enough HOLE for the screw to go through. Put a blob of epoxy over that HOLE. Make sure the epoxy is pushed into the sides of that drilled HOLE using a small toothpick. After the epoxy cures, drill a pilot HOLE that is about the width or a hair smaller of the screw shank (not the width of the screw with its threads but of the screw's rod-like shank). If the blob is too tall, sandpaper or file it down.

TLDR:
Your floppy drive's PAULA controller chip reminds me of my first real weapon in HentaiVerse.
I started playing with a mage and stubbornly kept on leveling up slowly buying mostly store bought leftovers and a few WTS vended armors. My first break was around level 68 when a very kind person had just upgraded to a better staff and gave to me for free his old trusty Redwood Staff named PAULA which had four stats (wis, int, endurance, and agility). It's unassigned despite being Exquisite. This was many years ago before this "first five upgrades doesn't need a Binding". Since it had some upgrades all of which used bindings, it was valuable then (although it is totally cheap now due to inflation of power levels, market, and item levels). IWBTH and soulforge wasn't around then.
https://hentaiverse.org/equip/6744394/d14fa20dcf

In ancient times when I still breadboarded as well as used phenolic boards full of HOLES with 0.100 spacing, once I had used a piece of board as an offset spacer in a makeshift temporary mount. Think of it this way, first the board is cut to the offset size desired which still fits in the cavity space. The board has HOLES drilled in it for where the drive will be fastened to the board with screws which will screw into the mounting HOLES in the front third of the floppy drive. There are additional HOLES (or even slot) in the phenolic board where screws contact either a floating nut or a captive nut formed by epoxying a nut to the board. If you do NOT have enough room for a nut, you can make a ONE TIME use artificial nut from epoxy. To do this, drill a wide enough HOLE for the screw to go through. Put a blob of epoxy over that HOLE. Make sure the epoxy is pushed into the sides of that drilled HOLE using a small toothpick. After the epoxy cures, drill a pilot HOLE that is about the width or a hair smaller of the screw shank (not the width of the screw with its threads but of the screw's rod-like shank). If the blob is too tall, sandpaper or file it down.

TLDR:
Your floppy drive's PAULA controller chip reminds me of my first real weapon in HentaiVerse.
I started playing with a mage and stubbornly kept on leveling up slowly buying mostly store bought leftovers and a few WTS vended armors. My first break was around level 68 when a very kind person had just upgraded to a better staff and gave to me for free his old trusty Redwood Staff named PAULA which had four stats (wis, int, endurance, and agility). It's unassigned despite being Exquisite. This was many years ago before this "first five upgrades doesn't need a Binding". Since it had some upgrades all of which used bindings, it was valuable then (although it is totally cheap now due to inflation of power levels, market, and item levels). IWBTH and soulforge wasn't around then.
https://hentaiverse.org/equip/6744394/d14fa20dcf

CODE

document.body.innerHTML=document.body.innerHTML.replace(/HOLES/g, 'holes').replace(/HOLE/g, 'hole')

let me actually read your post for comprehension. probably could have done that so much better with some other function but that was my lazy solution.
I have never actually bumped the potency tier of any of my weaponry at all. Feels like too much work for some reason. I'm probably just doing it wrong.
I still use the phenolic boards like that. With and without soldering pads.

My main problem is that the eject button is horizontally not at the right position. Vertically aligning it would be easy. The very easiest solutions are cutting into the case, running a ribbon to the outside of the amiga and just using it externally, using a floppy drive emulator (though I can't rescue my demo disks that way), and using the amiga with the top of the case removed.
Yeah I know it needs cleaning. It already looks much better than it used to when I got it.


For now I've removed the eject button and am pressing a screwdriver on the mounting plate for the eject button.
In the future I might saw the eject button in half and glue the half that would hit the case to the outside.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 13 2019, 11:00

[Machino Henmaru] The Holes (korean)
https://e-hentai.org/g/632228/27fb92a8a0/

Freaky those last 4 pages. Good.

I may get that damn new computer I wanted to have for my Birthday (in May) before the end of the month...damn it I will have to update Windows 10, Firefox, and lots of stuff, lots of loss of time for the final installation in my place (in addition to all other things scheduled).

I may get that damn new computer I wanted to have for my Birthday (in May) before the end of the month...damn it I will have to update Windows 10, Firefox, and lots of stuff, lots of loss of time for the final installation in my place (in addition to all other things scheduled).

R.I.P.
People claim that you need to do a lot ore of this with linux, but in my experience it's probably worse with windows, even if you don't need Cygwin in order to function on a windows machine like I do.

Especially once your computer's OEM stops giving drivers for newer windows versions, a fresh install is terrible. Hunting down either generic versions of the drivers or other manufacturer's versions and then removing all the OEM bloatware driver control interfaces is a lesser-known form of hell, only relieved because i'm able to identify other OEM's that used the chips by looking at the Linux kernel source's list of ID's that chip uses.
Just the other day I used the (old) cygwin install on an (old) Dell Latitude D610 running XP to start an ssh daemon, so that I could copy a ton of files off of it over a crossover cable since I didn't have a large enough portable drive on hand.
That reminds me, I need to set up my Cygwin 'portable' flash drive again since I'll be away for a while this week.

I absolutely loathe the American SNES console with the purple buttons and square body, give me the JP/EU pal version with the multicolor buttons and contoured body any day.

I know you wrote this months ago, but I was just digging through the thread trying to figure out what posts people gave me karma for (I just now noticed I've been given karma for some of my posts since I started posting on the forums) and it reminded me I didn't respond to that part of the post.
I 100% agree there.

I need to make/find someone who makes a spacer so I can plug my american SNES carts into my SFC without removing the shells, though.

On my Mega Drive (genesis) I just cut away at the lip of the cart slot, but I don't care as much about most old Sega stuff as I do about old Nintendo stuff.

I wish I could go back in time and prevent the artist who made the US Phantasy Star II artwork from being hired by Sega America.
Or maybe go back in time and make him miss his due date so they had no choice but to use the japanese box art.
I imported a non-working cartridge and a box from japan, and cut the lip of the slot on my genesis, just so I could play the game without seeing that horrible label sticking out.
Also I got the box because I legitimately think it's an awesome looking design. If I could get a nice poster-sized print of it, I would in a heartbeat.
Full size is also attached below the pic.

Full size:


Note to self: I don't think I have _ever_ cleaned the CCD on my Nikon D40.
I really should do that. I can see dust/dirt specks in this pic.
Do I really _need_ a cleaning kit? or would a lint free cloth and some pure water or something like that do?
(I am guessing alcohol is a bad idea.)
The yellowing on the super famicom is just how it is unfortunately. I can't complain much since I got it for $6 and only had to replace a fuse to make it work. "Retrobright" has always been a bit of a crapshoot for me and I honestly don't care quite that much.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 14 2019, 15:07