[X] My Assistant

Looking at the logs of a DNS-level adblocker I recently installed on my Android, 32% of all blocked requests were directed to data/bug monitoring platforms (Crashlytics, BugSnag, Instabug, etc.), 18% to assorted analytics sites (mostly Google Analytics) and 50% were actual ads
That's a whole fucking lot of telemetry my apps are producing
No wonder people get paranoid

My personal philosophy on bugs (at least for my small scale projects) is "if no one cares enough to contact me in some way or another when they find a bug, it must not be worth anyone's time to fix since it wasn't worth reporting."

Does anyone have any opinion on Patriot's current SATA SSD in terms of long term reliability? Are they good now or should Patriot Memory be considered as the same as ADATA? (Pillowgirl considered the latter a bottom-tier manufacturer)

I had a Patriot Pyro 60GB back in 2013 and it failed a week after I started photo editing. I also saw a video on Youtube, posted in 2016, complaining about failures of Patriot Torch SSD.

For my bro's photo/video editing rig, I'm thinking of buying for him a Corsair MP510 to be used as a boot & scratch disk, while the Patriot Burst would act as storage disk for saving/launching project files.

Never bought Patriot, all i know is they make average quality ram.

As for a M.2 drive, i think the Optane ones if you have an Intel cpu and otherwise Samsung still reigns supreme.

I don't really care about specialty interfaces, i'm happy with any SATA3 SSD, even the shittiest one because i have plenty of experience rocking HDD's with low sizes and 5600-12k rpm's and sometimes hybrid drives.

As long as my ram can read all the data from my SSD without a drop in advertised performance, it's all good in the hood.

This post has been edited by Pillowgirl: Aug 31 2019, 07:34

Never bought Patriot, all i know is they make average quality ram.

As for a M.2 drive, i think the Optane ones if you have an Intel cpu and otherwise Samsung still reigns supreme.

I don't really care about specialty interfaces, i'm happy with any SATA3 SSD, even the shittiest one because i have plenty of experience rocking HDD's with low sizes and 5600-12k rpm's and sometimes hybrid drives.

As long as my ram can read all the data from my SSD without a drop in advertised performance, it's all good in the hood.

Wow, 12k? Never owned faster than 10k RPM, and those are all SCSI disks.

And yeah still never owned an SSD in the commonly used sense (I have flash drives but we don't really count those). Some day it'll happen but I can't miss what I don't have. my six HDD's are serving my purposes fine in my desktop still, especially since I reboot so rarely.

Wow, 12k? Never owned faster than 10k RPM, and those are all SCSI disks.

And yeah still never owned an SSD in the commonly used sense (I have flash drives but we don't really count those). Some day it'll happen but I can't miss what I don't have. my six HDD's are serving my purposes fine in my desktop still, especially since I reboot so rarely.

I think they were velociraptors, they're all dead though *click-cick-cick-bzzzzztrrrrrr*.

Never bought Patriot, all i know is they make average quality ram.

As for a M.2 drive, i think the Optane ones if you have an Intel cpu and otherwise Samsung still reigns supreme.

I don't really care about specialty interfaces, i'm happy with any SATA3 SSD, even the shittiest one because i have plenty of experience rocking HDD's with low sizes and 5600-12k rpm's and sometimes hybrid drives.

As long as my ram can read all the data from my SSD without a drop in advertised performance, it's all good in the hood.

So it boils down to 2 options:
1. Samsung 860 Evo as boot/scratch disk; Corsair MP510 for storage
2. Corsair MP510 as boot/storage disk; cheapest 120GB Sata SSD I can find to use as a scratch disk

So it boils down to 2 options:
1. Samsung 860 Evo as boot/scratch disk; Corsair MP510 for storage
2. Corsair MP510 as boot/storage disk; cheapest 120GB Sata SSD I can find to use as a scratch disk

And what does your brother actually do to require the massive read/load speed?

As far as i know a M.2 drive is for convenience and low power consumption with wildly varying specifications, there are slow ones and really fast ones you will never realistically max out.

Using a M.2 disk for storage is a luxury because the GB/$ ratio is really high.



My usual builds have a big enough SATA3 SSD boot drive that isn't terrible quality to install a small collection of big games, so basically a 500gb+ drive.

And for storage i either use classic HDD's or good GB/$ SSD's like the crucial ones.


I do have a rig with a 2GB/S M.2 boot disk, and it's really overkill.

And what does your brother actually do to require the massive read/load speed?

As far as i know a M.2 drive is for convenience and low power consumption with wildly varying specifications, there are slow ones and really fast ones you will never realistically max out.

Using a M.2 disk for storage is a luxury because the GB/$ ratio is really high.
My usual builds have a big enough SATA3 SSD boot drive that isn't terrible quality to install a small collection of big games, so basically a 500gb+ drive.

And for storage i either use classic HDD's or good GB/$ SSD's like the crucial ones.
I do have a rig with a 2GB/S M.2 boot disk, and it's really overkill.

The Corsair's 1TB M2 drive has dropped to nearly half the price, considerably cheaper than a 1TB Samsung Sata Evo. Only last year the price per GB ratio was around 1:1. Admittedly, the only reason I have the Corsair drive in my desktop & laptop as well is the combination of price & the high endurance rating (for the consumer SSD category). Performance benchmarks in reviews have little influence on my purchase.

So it boils down to 2 options:
1. Samsung 860 Evo as boot/scratch disk; Corsair MP510 for storage
2. Corsair MP510 as boot/storage disk; cheapest 120GB Sata SSD I can find to use as a scratch disk

Don't trust an SSD for storage. It's expensive and less reliable for both "scratch" and long term storage usage.
Make a ramdisk if you really need "scratch" space. By scratch I assume you mean what adobe products call "scratch." In that case, put more simply, get more ram.
Use it for booting and store only stuff that is replaceable/that you don't care about on it (Or make backups regularly, I guess).

I think they were velociraptors, they're all dead though *click-cick-cick-bzzzzztrrrrrr*.

Sorry to hear that.
I've heard there's correlation between disk RPM and failure rate, but my daily runner's just got 7200rpm disks in it and they're still OK. I don't have a good sample size of higher and lower RPM disks – none of my 10k ones have gone yet but I don't use them too often.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 1 2019, 10:36

Casually considering buying a PlayStation 2. Trying to figure out if I should go for a soft-mod or a hardware one, and if I should go for the "slim" or a "fat" model.

Not asking for help, because I can figure it out. But whenever I do something like this it always turns into a deep-dive for long-forgotten information or information on technically how things work that's been buried under a pile of stupid users and howto guides that gloss over how things actually work. Inquiring minds need to know.

I understand if that last bit is hard to read/follow, but it's the last thing I thought and it made sense to me.

Still not sure I even want to buy a PS2, though. And I really need to sell some of my other stuff. Got two chinese playstation (original) laser pickups in the mail so I can get my two laser-less playstations running (for some definition of running) and maybe sell them off/give them to friends. Might keep the original (SCPH-1001) if the new drive works acceptably well, but the top half of the case is super brittle and I don't know what I'm going to do to fasten the two halves of the shell back together without breaking off the remaining screw posts. I'll definitely sell off the PSOne (the tiny playstation) since I haven't got the screen for it and it's got the least expansibility and I use RGB for video anyway so the better video encoder doesn't matter to me. It also requires a smaller modchip, which is annoying, and the original system has a better look aesthetically (I'm a huge sucker for boxiness).

If anyone suggests buying a fat PS3, my answer to you is "lolno," because Sony went pure evil around that point when they killed off PS3 linux and sued George Hotz.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 3 2019, 09:22

Don't trust an SSD for storage. It's expensive and less reliable for both "scratch" and long term storage usage.
Make a ramdisk if you really need "scratch" space. By scratch I assume you mean what adobe products call "scratch." In that case, put more simply, get more ram.
Use it for booting and store only stuff that is replaceable/that you don't care about on it (Or make backups regularly, I guess).

Yes, he uses Photoshop & is keen to learn Premiere Pro. Not sure if 16GB of RAM is plenty enough for those two applications. Those DDR4-2666 RAMs were initially meant for my Ryzen rig, but later on I changed my mind and bought a pair of 3200mhz RAMs instead. So I donated the unused RAMs to my brother. Speaking of which, maybe I'll also donate that Intel 120GB boot drive SSD which I no longer use, rather than selling it second hand. Its SLC NAND should be good enough for use as a scratch disk.

Yes, he uses Photoshop & is keen to learn Premiere Pro. Not sure if 16GB of RAM is plenty enough for those two applications. Those DDR4-2666 RAMs were initially meant for my Ryzen rig, but later on I changed my mind and bought a pair of 3200mhz RAMs instead. So I donated the unused RAMs to my brother. Speaking of which, maybe I'll also donate that Intel 120GB boot drive SSD which I no longer use, rather than selling it second hand. Its SLC NAND should be good enough for use as a scratch disk.

I'd say 16gb is likely enough, but it really depends on how crazy you want to get in photoshop/premiere. If only running one at a time it should be ample regardless for most use cases.

I had some music videos on YouTube in the background and all of them sounded like they were being played in a higher tempo
I thought I was going senile but it turns out they were being played faster, more specifically at 111.11% their normal speed, despite the playback speed being set at 1.0
Not sure if I was caught in some weird YouTube experiment or if it's just them introducing random new bugs for shits and giggles

AMD IS HOT!!

Thinking about how to easily extract H game resources.

More than 20 Unity and RPG Maker (ツクール) games I bought or secured to decompile them and get their CGs and animated images in general format.

However, even with several extracting tools and programs such as Unity Editor, RPG VX maker,

I could neither obtain them from Untity games, nor extract whole CGs from RPG Maker's.

As of now, I almost give up drawing animated CGs out of the games, especially Unity's.

The thing now I can do is just gathering partial images extracted from RPG Maker's, then assembling them one by one with Photoshop.

Totally hassle and tedious work... I wish I could do this work more easily and automatically.



This post has been edited by Jason78: Sep 8 2019, 14:02

Thinking about how to easily extract H game resources.

More than 20 Unity and RPG Maker (ツクール) games I bought or secured to decompile them and get their CGs and animated images in general format.

However, even with several extracting tools and programs such as Unity Editor, RPG VX maker,

I could neither obtain them from Untity games, nor extract whole CGs from RPG Maker's.

As of now, I almost give up drawing animated CGs out of the games, especially Unity's.

The thing now I can do is just gathering partial images extracted from RPG Maker's, then assembling them one by one with Photoshop.

Totally hassle and tedious work... I wish I could do this work more easily and automatically.

Have a chat with genl ( https://forums.e-hentai.org/index.php?showuser=515114 ) perhaps

I could neither obtain them from Untity games

Unity is just properly encrypted, unlike RPG maker games, which give the encrypt key in the open.

nor extract whole CGs from RPG Maker's.

You picked the wrong game, or you are just not fast enough to rip the easy ones.

The thing now I can do is just gathering partial images extracted from RPG Maker's, then assembling them one by one with Photoshop.

Have a chat with genl ( https://forums.e-hentai.org/index.php?showuser=515114 ) perhaps

Back then I wrote and used a Python script that calls ImageMagick to produce image combinations (among a bunch of other functions). The problem is that some games like the one in your image have waaaayyy too many image components and, as a result, it would require significant labour to manually organise the images beforehand to decide which image components should go together in a scene group. Moreover, an automation program that simply outputs all possible combinations in each group can output many, many combinations that are not actually in the game and look way too repetitive in a gallery. From my experience, at least some people do not like tons of different combinations, and it can make you unhappy in the end.

Therefore, I think the only proper way to handle these games is to write a program that analyses game data/code to detect which images go together and in what sequence and combinations. This would require significant effort, and you need to further multiply the effort required because you need different programs for different engines, so I do not think you can easily get help for this. In fact, I will just recommend you to give up on those difficult games, although it is obviously better if you do not. Doujin game CGs get little love on EH and these games with messy assets are often not worth it. Just do the easier ones and focus on cleaning and sorting the files to make neat uploads.

This post has been edited by mayriad: Sep 8 2019, 19:08

Unity is just properly encrypted, unlike RPG maker games, which give the encrypt key in the open.

Daily reminder that any game on your computer that you can run offline must provide the decryption key somewhere.

Although you're right, RPG Maker games made it much, much easier to find the key for than Unity last time I tried doing anything like that.

This would be much cheaper to do with a uC or full arduino myself. But I'm afraid my code would fail in strange ways when put i to production use. Best stick to tested modules that implement most stuff in hardware or simple assembly code.

This would be much cheaper to do with a uC or full arduino myself. But I'm afraid my code would fail in strange ways when put i to production use. Best stick to tested modules that implement most stuff in hardware or simple assembly code.

What would be cheaper?