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> Tech Questions/Help & Support Thread, Post your tech questions, and maybe someone will help you with them.

 
post Sep 5 2022, 17:08
Post #21
akaava



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anyone BE GOOD AT DOCKER?
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post Sep 5 2022, 17:09
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Docker sucks and I refuse to use it.

But depending on the problem, maybe I'd know what's going on.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 6 2022, 07:41
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post Sep 9 2022, 15:41
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Would you say don't opt for cheapest option below for my use case: daily overnight running a BitTorrent client (both download & seeding)?

Seagate Barracuda Compute: ~ US$80-90
Seagate (non-Barracuda): ~ US$67
Toshiba L200: ~ US$60

All three have the warranty period: 2 years and come in 2.5" form factor.
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post Sep 9 2022, 16:25
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QUOTE(elda88 @ Sep 9 2022, 15:41) *

Would you say don't opt for cheapest option below for my use case: daily overnight running a BitTorrent client (both download & seeding)?

Seagate Barracuda Compute: ~ US$80-90
Seagate (non-Barracuda): ~ US$67
Toshiba L200: ~ US$60

All three have the warranty period: 2 years and come in 2.5" form factor.

I'd say the more pressing concern is whether the disks are SMR or not. I believe, though I might be wrong here, that them being 2.5" drives increases the chances of them being SMR too.
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post Sep 9 2022, 20:15
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QUOTE(Scumbini @ Sep 9 2022, 14:25) *
I'd say the more pressing concern is whether the disks are SMR or not. I believe, though I might be wrong here, that them being 2.5" drives increases the chances of them being SMR too.
You are correct.
If it is over one terabyte, a spinning disk, and 2.5" form factor, I don't think non-SMR drives currently exist.

I have a question I think Wayward Vagabond may be able to answer (although anyone else can speak up if they know, too).

I have this JVC (read: Matsushita/Panasonic) amplifier from the early 80's. It sometimes gets a loud "ground loop" style hum (through the speakers), which goes away if I squeeze on the flux band (copper band) of the transformer (top right) - or alternatively slap the chassis.
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/5ANE31Jl.jpg)

After my last squeeze, it went away for several weeks, but as always it just came back.

What are my options? Should I just get another transformer (there's one of the same model number on ebay for $35 or so)? Or is there something I can be doing to save this one? - I'd rather save this one if at all feasible.

And yes, I know I need to recap this amp.

This isn't technically an El-core, is it? It looks like it has one extra winding. But I am very limited in my experience with power transformers.

More pics
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/rbpNFXsl.jpg)
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/45DrJLUl.jpg)

There's a service manual out there for this amp (JVC R-S5), but the schematic scans are craptastic.
[files.catbox.moe] https://files.catbox.moe/82tb6i.pdf
I extracted the "Y" channel from the jpeg images of the schematic to try to get a little more legibility, in case it helps.
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/2wu9bjTm.png)
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/z4dk3Kom.png)

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 11 2022, 06:28
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post Sep 10 2022, 02:13
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QUOTE(Scumbini @ Sep 9 2022, 22:25) *

I'd say the more pressing concern is whether the disks are SMR or not. I believe, though I might be wrong here, that them being 2.5" drives increases the chances of them being SMR too.

According to Seagate's spec sheet, the Barracuda compute are SMR drives. The Barracuda Pro on other hand uses CMR but there doesn't appear any to come in 2.5" form factor. Meanwhile, Toshiba claims CMR in its spec sheet.

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post Sep 10 2022, 02:26
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QUOTE(elda88 @ Sep 10 2022, 02:13) *

According to Seagate's spec sheet, the Barracuda compute are SMR drives. The Barracuda Pro on other hand uses CMR but there doesn't appear any to come in 2.5" form factor. Meanwhile, Toshiba claims CMR in its spec sheet.

If that's the case then the Toshiba is the easy choice..
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post Sep 11 2022, 02:58
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Mine's 3.5" but my most recent HDD buy was a Toshiba CMR. Been excellent so far.

Their documentation/spec sheets seem a little more straightforward, too.

Last I knew WD made some CMR 1TB 2.5" HDD's. But beware - there are WD Black SMR drives, too.

Found an alternate scan of the schematic. Somewhat better in most ways, but also has problems.
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/5z7BOa2m.png)[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/i6MTTm5m.png)

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 11 2022, 07:41
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post Sep 11 2022, 13:37
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QUOTE(dragontamer8740 @ Sep 11 2022, 02:58) *

WD Black SMR drives, too.

Man WD is really going hard on the "devalue your branding" speedrun aren't they. "High Performance" SMRs and NAS SMRs, ridiculous.
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post Sep 12 2022, 01:40
Post #30
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Scratch that. After taking a second look at Toshiba L200 spec sheets, it actually comes in CMR & SMR variants. I didn't spot the word SMR the first time because I just gave the spec sheet a quick glance and only the models at the top half of the list are actually CMR drives.

Is it true that all CMR drives are 9.5mm thick while drives that uses SMR are 7mm thick? It's because a buyer review of a Toshiba L200 listing on an online store claimed it is. According to my laptop's spec, the 2.5 HDD slot can only support up to 1TB. I can guess the reason when I saw some sellers specified the 2TB models as 9.5mm thick while the 500GB & 1TB's thickness are listed as 7mm.

If that's the case, then my choice might be limited to 1TB SMR drives.
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post Sep 13 2022, 05:19
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No, that is not true.

I am sure you can get a low capacity 7mm disk that is CMR. There is nothing about how HDD heads are constructed that would require SMR in order to fit in that form factor.

But it is true that thinner disks are inherently shittier because you have to store more data on fewer platters. And more likely to be SMR at any given size, because again, fewer platters means you have to pack things more densely.

Once again, the macbook air ruined laptops.

And again, you should be able to find 1tb CMR 2.5" hdd's, unless you have one of those slim meme laptops.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Sep 13 2022, 05:25
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post Oct 2 2022, 07:53
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So I have a question, I hope I'm doing this correctly (this is my second post here)... does anyone have a solid recommendation to learn about monitors & about color spaces (gamuts and all that)?

All the mainstream tech hubs and places I've been to just talk & revolve around nits of brightness, fps and resolution (which are important, yes) but I want to learn the true basics, as well as the nitty gritty stuff of monitors.

To divulge a little, I'm not trying to program nor build one, but I have a keen interest in learning about color representation on screens for art making. I'm not going to buy an eizo monitor, either - they may be great, but I am not going to nor have the means to buy it, nor build/ dedicate an entire space just for color correcting.

Like I want to know what discrepancies to compensate for when viewing stuff on a decent monitor, coloring in the right gamuts, and so on and so on (special interest in perceptual phenomena and/or about techniques like dithering for gradients and such, lol).

Any recommendations toward in-depth articles, other communities, or other sources for this stuff would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!
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post Oct 2 2022, 08:23
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QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 2 2022, 05:53) *
So I have a question, I hope I'm doing this correctly (this is my second post here)... does anyone have a solid recommendation to learn about monitors & about color spaces (gamuts and all that)?
It's about 2 A.M. where I am now, so I won't go into massive detail at the moment (edit: looks like I lied), but I have written software to wrangle other color management software before (stuff to automate Argyll CMS workflows).

So I might know enough to give some advice/info.

QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 2 2022, 05:53) *
All the mainstream tech hubs and places I've been to just talk & revolve around nits of brightness, fps and resolution (which are important, yes) but I want to learn the true basics, as well as the nitty gritty stuff of monitors.

To divulge a little, I'm not trying to program nor build one, but I have a keen interest in learning about color representation on screens for art making. I'm not going to buy an eizo monitor, either - they may be great, but I am not going to nor have the means to buy it, nor build/ dedicate an entire space just for color correcting.
I can't afford an Eizo (I want an EV2730Q, the 1920x1920 one, though...) so I'm in a similar boat. My laptop's screen had this horrible orange cast to it that I absolutely wanted to solve at any cost, but I also used the colorimeter I got on my plasma TV and other displays afterwards. It can't make the gamut of a monitor wider than it is, but it can certainly help to fix color inaccuracies. It also helped to correct for the fading backlight of my PowerBook G4 and the change in effective screen gamma that causes.

To get color correction in your stuff, you need two things:
1) white balance correction (this is done via the video card's VCGT (Video Card Gamma Table), which is basically a one-dimensional correction to each of the red, green, and blue curves of the display. This works across the entire display.

2) A 3D lookup table (more on that below).

For true color accuracy, though, you also need to do a color lookup using a 3-D lookup table (3DLUT). Unfortunately, a lot of software doesn't support 3D LUT's; I've done a fair bit of footwork retrofitting support into my preferred comic viewer, but things meant for good quality image processing like GIMP/Krita support it just fine and in Windows Photoshop apparently works with it too (not on Windows 11, though; it's been broken there for some time).

(Technically a compositing window manager could implement 3D lookups as a shader... but I am too dumb to be able to program that and no one else seems interested in doing it).

So that's a major selling point for those ludicrously expensive screens; they have support for loading a 3D lookup table internally, which means everything on your computer gets accurate colors.

But you can still get away without it, for the most part. Chrome will not support 3DLUT correction, but Firefox and its relatives do (and have for about seventeen years now). Most good quality image processing programs support it. MPV (video player) does, too.

The 3D lookup table is stored in an ICC profile, as is the VCGT adjustment data. The VCGT calculation part is called "calibrating" and the 3DLUT part is called "profiling." You can technically do just the profiling without calibrating and get good colors in image editors and the like, but you will get an overall better result (and better white balance/gamma response across your display) if you do calibration and then profile the already-calibrated screen.

I recommend displaycal for making your ICC profile, if your computer can run it. If not, I can suggest alternatives. DisplayCAL works way better than most software that colorimeter manufacturers ship with their devices. You will also need a colorimeter, of course. I'd suggest getting a "colormunki display" if you want something (relatively) cheap, although if you want to do ultra-bright displays (over 1000 nits) you should get the i1 display pro instead. I think they rebranded both of those recently but I don't remember what they changed the name to. But again, it is very late so I am not going to check right now. Maybe it was "colorchecker" or something?

QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 2 2022, 05:53) *
Like I want to know what discrepancies to compensate for when viewing stuff on a decent monitor, coloring in the right gamuts, and so on and so on (special interest in perceptual phenomena and/or about techniques like dithering for gradients and such, lol).
Dithering is an interesting one; my best (non-plasma) monitor uses temporal dithering (which is basically PWM'ing (strobing) the subpixels at faster-than-display-rates to approximate an 8 or 10 bit panel's number of colors while using a cheaper 6-bit panel). It honestly works quite well; I think I've noticed (slight) flicker exactly twice in the seven years I have used it. And it was easily ignorable.

As for perceptual phenomena, I find that differentiating between purple and blue is where most of my displays deviate from sRGB (which is all that my non-CRT, non-plasmas can hope to come close to).

With most colors on a 2-dimensional representation of a color space, you can draw a straight line out from the center at any given angle and the hue will stay relatively stable, with the color mainly changing in intensity/saturation. But at some angles, drawing a straight line out from the center in the purple area can actually make you end up in the 'blue' range by the time you reach the edge of the graph. Color profiling (making a 3d lookup table) deals with this quite well, but it's still really interesting to me.

I should probably also mention different rendering intents, but remind me in a few hours after I've slept.

As for things to compensate for (you don't absolutely have to do all of these, but it's good practice when you can):
  • never adjust the contrast control from its default setting on an LCD.
  • ambient lighting can change the perceived "white point" of a display.
  • if your screen has a lower gamut than the color space you are targetting, the rendering intents become important to tell the computer how to handle the difference. Not to get too far into it, but some methods result in clipping, while others "scale" and then adjust the lookup table targetting the wider color space so that it fits within your display's capabilities. Even within these two basic methodologies you can have multiple ways of doing things (I like "luminance-preserving perceptual" on narrow-gamut monitors).
If your display is relatively close to the standard, you may be better off just calibrating (fixing the white temperature) and leaving the 3D lookup stuff alone, since the lookup table will result in potential banding and other issues, especially on 24-bit displays (8 bits for each of R, G, and B; AKA almost all consumer displays... even the 6-bit panels usually take a 24-bit imput signal).

If your display is about sRGB gamut (or maybe lower), you'll probably want to target the sRGB color space when calibrating and profiling. The gamma curve can be left alone, or sRGB gamma can be used. I recommend leaving it alone, again to prevent banding issues, unless you have very specific needs.

QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 2 2022, 05:53) *
Any recommendations toward in-depth articles, other communities, or other sources for this stuff would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!


I am happy to talk about this as much as you want, ask away. This is one of the things I am actually very confident on my understanding of (although I probably would not be able to actually write something like Argyll CMS on my own... the math is hard).

Other things I didn't talk about enough here:
  • Rendering intents
  • Intermediate color spaces (ICSes) - CIE L*A*B and CIE 1931 (X*Y*Z) linear color spaces used as a mid-way point between any given source and destination color space
  • Probably a lot of other stuff that I'm forgetting because it's super late here.
Ask about whatever you want. And you're doing it right so far, btw.

P.S.: this picture displays purple/blue very differently on most different displays I throw it up on. It's a good test picture IMO. It also uses some high intensity colors in difficult to reach regions of the color spectrum, so the pinkish highlights are a good test for low-gamut-width screens as well.
(IMG:[i.postimg.cc] https://i.postimg.cc/fWBNBfsC/pfp-static.png)
(also, I drew it.) (Did you mean something like this when you said 'dithering for gradients?' or more like the temporal dithering I mentioned above?)
On some of my screens without correction the darker shade of her hair looks blueish; it should be purple. Also on some of my screens, only when using certain rendering intents, the lines in the background can look purplish (they should be solid blue).

I have a photo I took on my DSLR that illustrates how different it can render between different displays, but I am too tired to find it right now.

I also wrote a python program you can use to burn an ICC profile's 3D LUT into an image file so you can set it as a desktop wallpaper or whatever and have it look correct. LMK if you want it.

If you don't want to spend on a colorimeter, you can get at least the white balance/color temperature close to correct eyeballing SMPTE color bars if you know what you're looking for. I'd help with that if you can't afford to "do it rightâ„¢." And remember, generally speaking, the better your display is, the less wildly it will deviate from the standard color spaces, and the easier it will be to get away with no 3D lookups. Assuming your target color space is of a similar gamut width to that of your screen.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 2 2022, 15:05
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post Oct 2 2022, 16:01
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QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 2 2022, 07:53) *

So I have a question, I hope I'm doing this correctly (this is my second post here)... does anyone have a solid recommendation to learn about monitors & about color spaces (gamuts and all that)?

All the mainstream tech hubs and places I've been to just talk & revolve around nits of brightness, fps and resolution (which are important, yes) but I want to learn the true basics, as well as the nitty gritty stuff of monitors.

To divulge a little, I'm not trying to program nor build one, but I have a keen interest in learning about color representation on screens for art making. I'm not going to buy an eizo monitor, either - they may be great, but I am not going to nor have the means to buy it, nor build/ dedicate an entire space just for color correcting.

Like I want to know what discrepancies to compensate for when viewing stuff on a decent monitor, coloring in the right gamuts, and so on and so on (special interest in perceptual phenomena and/or about techniques like dithering for gradients and such, lol).

Any recommendations toward in-depth articles, other communities, or other sources for this stuff would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!


The RTings monitor test methodology pages have some good info that may be of use [www.rtings.com] https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tests
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post Oct 2 2022, 23:53
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QUOTE(Scumbini @ Oct 2 2022, 14:01) *
The RTings monitor test methodology pages have some good info that may be of use [www.rtings.com] https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tests
That seems more geared towards picking a monitor to buy, isn't it?
I don't know if that's what they're asking for, or if they already have a monitor and they want to make the most of the one they have.

Worth noting that the display in my laptop covers only about 60% of sRGB (it's a boe-hydis AFFS panel from 2011... most displays are better than that now), so the color correction is really helpful (although to avoid clipping, I usually use the 'luminance preserving perceptual' intent, which desaturates things a little compared to relative colorimetric). My desktop's monitor covers ~99.6% of it. The example image I posted before looks drastically different between the two. I think the best way to get a good understanding of what a color gamut actually means is to try to make narrow gamut monitors correct for a wider gamut and then compare to a monitor that properly displays that same gamut.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 3 2022, 00:03
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post Oct 3 2022, 08:15
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QUOTE(dragontamer8740 @ Oct 2 2022, 14:53) *

That seems more geared towards picking a monitor to buy, isn't it?
I don't know if that's what they're asking for, or if they already have a monitor and they want to make the most of the one they have.

Worth noting that the display in my laptop covers only about 60% of sRGB (it's a boe-hydis AFFS panel from 2011... most displays are better than that now), so the color correction is really helpful (although to avoid clipping, I usually use the 'luminance preserving perceptual' intent, which desaturates things a little compared to relative colorimetric). My desktop's monitor covers ~99.6% of it. The example image I posted before looks drastically different between the two. I think the best way to get a good understanding of what a color gamut actually means is to try to make narrow gamut monitors correct for a wider gamut and then compare to a monitor that properly displays that same gamut.


@dragontamer8740 - You are correct. I don't necessarily need to buy a monitor, just want to learn to be more vigilante when it comes to painting my stuff more accurately

@scumbini - I appreciate the RTings share, though, I frequent their site because it's always good to test these things regardless of what the specs are, for you know, just 'cause.
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post Oct 3 2022, 08:34
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@dragontamer8740 - man, I'd buy you a cup of coffee (or whatever you prefer) just to pick your brain for a few hours. you've been immensely helpful!

I now have a collection of key concepts to go further into this dive.

Currently I'm reading up on our actual sense of perception and the tricks and illusions our brains so that I can apply them and be keen when it comes to coloring. And I'm learning about monitors to navigate the myriad of color options and color discrepancies they physical have so that when I go to print, I know what to expect and/ or modify to get the results I'm shooting for.

To be honest what sparked all this, funny enough, was someone in my sphere on twitter was complaining about how gradients aren't lush even on 16-bpc or 32-bpc and continued on about how photoshop and their team at adobe must not care about what they do... I know enough that if the end result is a print, going beyond 16-bpc (yes, you can let the printer and software parse the information, but you're bound to get some color blemishes that you'll not be too fond of - from my experience any way) but I didn't know enough about monitors to be like "dithering techniques! monitor color spaces! and so on" - not that I was going to correct them, but internally I was upset at myself for not knowing about a tool I use everyday for work & fun. Like, I had a moment of clarity and realized I've got some learnin' to do - just needed a few kick starters to get going.

Sorry, about the little rant, but wanted to make my motivations clear on this topic going forward. Again, thank you @dragontamer8740 so much for all the information, won't be shy to ask more questions I'm certainly going to run into. lol
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post Oct 4 2022, 03:38
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I don't use photoshop, or even windows... so I don't know about that.

But I do use GIMP, Krita, and a variety of other color managed software.

Even in Wine, photoshop color correction refuses to work because photoshop won't let you manually select an ICC profile (it tries to read windows color settings and I don't think Wine implements that API).

My brain can be picked free of charge, at least for now (I have some time and I just take joy from knowing someone else is benefitting from my existence and hyper-specific areas of interest).

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post Oct 14 2022, 03:26
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QUOTE(mrtropical @ Oct 3 2022, 06:34) *
One more thing I just remembered.

If you're going to profile a printer as well, you should get a spectrometer.

Colorimeters are designed to work well for light emitting RGB screens, but they take a bunch of engineering shortcuts to do it compared to a more generalized solution like a spectrometer that can also handle reflective media.

A spectrometer will work on screens, too, although colorimeters might give more accurate results at very low intensities. But in order to correctly profile a monitor using a colorimeter you have to have a 'correction profile' for the type of backlight or phosphor used. You can use generic ones, but for best results you need to make a correction profile using a spectrometer. So if you are working with print and digital media, and you only want to buy one device, make it a spectrometer.

Unfortunately those are even more expensive than colorimeters.

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post Oct 14 2022, 18:51
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Does anyone here know if audio CD's ripped to bin/cue are supposed to use little- or big- endian format for samples?

I have a feeling CDRWin, EAC and such are using little-endian, but I have no windows machines to test on and my software is making big-endian rips. I'm wondering if I need to swap the byte order of my rip.

If someone has a known good bin/cue format rip, and has ffmpeg on a unix box, you can run:
CODE
ffmpeg -f s16le -acodec pcm_s16le -ac 2 -ar 44100 -i file.bin -f alsa default

If you get static played back through your speakers, then it's supposed to be big-endian. if plays back normally, it should be little-endian.

Thanks.

--UPDATE--

Found a cue/bin rip from someone else. It's little endian. So I byteswapped all my rips and we should be good now.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Oct 14 2022, 20:55
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