[X] My Assistant

Also the biodegradable wiring in the dash/engine loom.

I already replaced the loom in my current car out of paranoid fear from the past of endless electrical issues.

I already replaced the loom in my current car out of paranoid fear from the past of endless electrical issues.

Volvos from the early 80's to mid-1987 had especially terrible wiring harnesses. every single one of them is bad by now, unless they got replaced by the new part number or someone rebuilt/re-crimped the harness manually.

My '76 still seems good, except for the burned resistor on the blower motor (which is unfortunate).

Mercedes from the 90s ('92-'96) have very similar issues.
[badmercedes.com] http://badmercedes.com/

Between 1992 and 1996, virtually ALL Mercedes-Benz produced, from the cheapest to the opulent, were equipped with certain engine wiring components that disintegrate over time. The wiring insulation under the hood cracks and falls apart. It doesn't matter how well you maintain your car, if you drive it little or alot, if you garage it or let it sit out in the street, if you pamper or abuse it - the insulation in the engine wiring harness will crack and eventually turn into dust over time. There is no way of stopping this from happening, for the wire insulators were built purposefully with "green" materials that crumble. Bare spots on wires start shorting, and strange things begin to happen to your car.

...there is evidence that Mercedes Benz USA has been aware of the problem as far back as 1995, yet failed to act proactively and in good faith. There is also irrefutable evidence that the defect materially affects the usability, fitness of use, safety, value and reasonable expectations of enjoyment of the vehicle, and that the premature failure of the wiring presents no reasonable argument for normal "wear and tear".'

From their written response, it can be expected that Mercedes-Benz will invariably claim that "your vehicle is not included in any open recall campaigns and is out of warranty by time and mileage." But, as Bravo points out on his site, "They refused to effect a safety recall presumably due to the huge number of vehicles affected."

Volvo 240-series electrical systems from 1978 to 1985 were engineered out of biodegradable materials, making them "environmentally friendly". Unfortunately, the environment in which the underhood wiring lives doesn't return the favor. Insulation disintegrates, wires short, and the unlucky owner is left sorting out the mess. Volvo never admitted there was ever an issue, but then amazingly came out with new engine harnesses with different part numbers that had new, improved insulation.

Then, several years after the Swedes corrected their eco-wiring problems, Mercedes-Benz proudly introduced theirs...

Mercedes-Benz: Engineered Like No Other Car in the World!

Note that that I dispute the '78-85 figure. I think it's more like '87 that it stopped. It could very well be '78 that it started. Volvo was one of the first companies to stop using asbestos in brakes, so they have a track record of doing stuff like this.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: May 29 2022, 01:31

Tried to start teaching a friend how manual transmissions work/how to drive them today. It's weird to think how manual transmissions felt so "out of control" to me the first time I drove one.

Even though I hadn't had the chance to drive one for a couple years before now, I picked up driving my 244 again like an old glove.

On a side note, I like the "Regular Cars" volvo 240 review, although I think his statement, that hipsters stopped using the 240, "freeing up the car for enthusiasts to enjoy... but what is there to enjoy?"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nxMYiVdXD0

His problem is that he drove an automatic transmission one, which is not very fun (...except when cornering at high speeds). I'd still prefer to drive an automatic 200 series to almost any more modern car, but they share an automatic transmission with the late 90's Toyota Tacoma - they outsourced to an aisin-warner design, where their manual gearbox was designed in-house and is infinitely more entertaining (and far better at transferring power to the wheels). Modern automatic transmissions can be sort of okay; the ones in the 200 series are neither modern nor okay.

Also, "the motor mounts heave and flex upon ignition" - they are purposefully made so that in a really bad accident they will shear and make the engine fall away from the driver's legs.

His line about accelerating onto the freeway being "dicier than jerking off under your gown during outdoor commencement" is only accurate of the automatic transmission version in my experience. The manuals still aren't "fast," but they are significantly better off.

Also, saw a W123 Mercedes 240D today. I'd like to meet whoever drives it. It's another unusual car to see in Indiana. I think I've seen two or three other W123's in the last four years. About as many as I've seen of other 200 series Volvos. Or 80's Saabs (which I admire, but only from a distance - they look like the kind of car that'd be fun if you have a lot of time and a real passion for them, but I'd rather have an old (diesel) merc if I had to choose).
[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/v2rW9SJg.jpg)

Also, with diesel prices being what they are, I really feel bad for diesel drivers.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: May 30 2022, 05:54

What's the difference between a "water resistant" car cover and a "waterproof" one?

I have a really thick cover (with what appears to be cotton lining inside) that seems to be nearly waterproof for my station wagon (which was a custom cover since it's so large), and a thinner Budge one that I bought at costco which fits my sedan pretty well.
The thin one claims to be "water resistant." I don't remember what the description was for the station wagon's cover.

Guessing this one breathes better than my custom one. So maybe that'd be better for covering a car that is already a little wet? It might be better since it maybe won't trap moisture that's already in there...

Edit: It just started sprinkling. Maybe if the rain gets harder I'll discover the difference for myself. Just barely beat the rain home. I feel bad for torturing the clutch/syncros... but I'd just hand washed the whole car and really don't want to do it twice in one day.

----
Also, just realized part of why this car feels so zippy to me.
It has a 4.1:1 reduction on the rear axle.
No model year after '76 had one that high; '77 dropped it to 3.91:1. The last year to have a 3.91:1 gearing was 1980 and it just kept dropping from there. 1983-1993 all used 3.31:1 gearing, which might explain why it's so hard to get the engine to reach the red line there.
Note that this all only applies to the US market; no clue about in other countries.

This one has no problem hitting the red line (though I try not to), and is really fun to accelerate in. Probably not great for fuel economy, though.

Unfortunately it also means it'll probably be hard to find replacement parts if anything goes south. 1975 used a different transmission and engine, but also had some cars with 4.1:1 gearing, so maybe those would be interchangeable for the rear axle at least.

I wonder if it was just because of the energy crisis.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 5 2022, 06:30

I just read about Ammonia-based engines. They seem pretty neat. DME, too.

Anyone ever messed with/looked into converting a diesel engine to run on DME? Kind of curious what it would take. I understand the principles of diesel engines but have never owned one.

It looks like it would significantly reduce the power output of a diesel engine for the same quantity of fuel in the combustion chambers, though.

--
This sounds a little weird, and it's probably unhealthy, but I'd forgotten how much I loved the smell of the unburnt gasoline in car exhaust. I grew up in a town with a lot of old car heritage and was constantly surrounded by them.

Also found a nice k-jetronic description.
[www.cabby-info.com] http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/KJetronicManual2.pdf

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 5 2022, 15:43

I just read about Ammonia-based engines. They seem pretty neat. DME, too.

Anyone ever messed with/looked into converting a diesel engine to run on DME? Kind of curious what it would take. I understand the principles of diesel engines but have never owned one.

It looks like it would significantly reduce the power output of a diesel engine for the same quantity of fuel in the combustion chambers, though.

Seems like its similar to LPG conversion. Seems more common in China.

I've only worked with bio diesel and ethanol which are more common conversions, where you may loose power depending on the engine. LPG estimated up to 20% loss and ethanol up to 30%.

With ethanol, you can make more power on high compression / forced induction engines.

Cleaned my engine off with some degreaser today. Hopefully will be able to tell where leaks come from if (when) they start happening.

Next I think I need to replace some hoses. Some the lines to/from the fuel distributor box seem to be cracking. Fun.

And the one that goes through the firewall's especially bad.

[i.imgur.com] (IMG:[i.imgur.com] https://i.imgur.com/ogG9qvyg.jpg)

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 12 2022, 20:45

Went out to drive the 245 ('93 wagon) for the first time in a week or so... and the starter won't crank.

It makes no attempt to even begin to turn, but it doesn't smoke either. Fuses are good. Relays click.

This has happened before and mysteriously solved itself by me simply waiting 15 minutes and trying again. Pisses me off.

The '76 is still starting fine (but it has a manual, so it would matter significantly less if it had starter troubles since I could pop the clutch. Remember to never buy automatic transmissions).

Just wanted to take it out and give it a wash. Guess it didn't want it. Just spent all day working on other cars; not going to spend any more time on them today.

Drove the 244 ('76 sedan) about 220 miles today; no problems (except when it was running really low on petrol; as I pulled into the station it felt like it was on its last ghasps despite having two gallons left in the tank).
Oh, and I snapped the lumbar support, which was unfortunate, but now I have an excuse to take the upholstery off the drivers' seat and replace the foam while I'm in there.

I've taken to using an ipod dock as a radio in the '76. It fits perfectly in the gap between the front seets over the handbrake.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 18 2022, 23:26

Update: waited two hours, came out, started on first attempt without a hiccup. I don't get it.

Update: waited two hours, came out, started on first attempt without a hiccup. I don't get it.

#justvolvothings....

[www.news.com.au] The ultimate Subaru WRX.

[www.news.com.au] The ultimate Subaru WRX.

I was like 'WTF they are re-releasing the 'mean' eye old WRXs? But they are just getting the old cars and doing them up as new rally tuner cars.

They usually use a more recent version but maybe they are cashing in?

I was like 'WTF they are re-releasing the 'mean' eye old WRXs? But they are just getting the old cars and doing them up as new rally tuner cars.

They usually use a more recent version but maybe they are cashing in?

The idea of them taking a 22b and making it even more insane makes me happy.

None of this BMW/Supra crap.

The idea of them taking a 22b and making it even more insane makes me happy.

None of this BMW/Supra crap.

Yeah I prefer the older cars.


I was at a meet, a P plater had made money with crypto but blew it all on a freaking awesome great condition low miles 600kw MKIV Supra...

A bunch of us tried to warn him, but he didn't listen. It was obviously only ever used on the track / drag strip. it had a straight pipe exhaust with a blow off valve.

"Your car is awesome, but you can't drive that on the streets, especially as a p plater"

P plater: "Yolo"

Didn't last a week before cops took it. The dude was racing it around the streets at night. That car was just bait for cops. Even if it was stock, they automatically pull over p-platers with supras.

This post has been edited by EsotericSatire: Jun 23 2022, 06:54

Son of a bitch; car cover just blew off again. Only partially, because I had a rope tied through the singular hole on the bottom of the cover, but it looks like I will have to buy the damn tarp clips and bungee cords.

My wagon's car cover has these nice little nylon straps with clips on them to secure the cover and that one has never blown off in a four year period. Why the fuck don't all covers have those? If your cover turns into a parachute it has failed to "cover" your "car."

#justvolvothings....

I laughed.
This was on the '93, which allegedly doesn't suffer the wiring failure pandemic older volvos do.

This has happened once before, about a year ago, also on a hot summer day.

Automatic volvos are absolutely boring and dull to drive. If you can build up some speed (eventually) they still handle nicely, but that's about it.

My '76 doesn't have power steering (only the GL trimmed sedan and all wagons got power steering that year), so that somewhat limits my confidence doing sharp cornering (which is probably a good thing for the bearings, struts, and all the rest of the car's health, to be honest).

After having the power steering racks fail on two consecutive volvos, though (moving the replacement rack from the first one to the second one when the second one went), it's honestly kind of nice not to have to worry about when that's going to spring a leak. I think that means the only hydraulic system on this car is for the brakes.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 26 2022, 15:26

Saw a guy with a minty looking 1990 Cadillac Brougham (Fleetwood) with his hood popped open in the countryside while on a pleasure cruise this evening. Did the weird person thing and stopped to ask if I could help somehow. He'd just picked the cadillac up an hour earlier and the coolant looked like chocolate pudding.

Pointed him to the nearest gas station, told him good luck, and that I hope it's not mixing oil and coolant in the block. Allegedly the engine oil itself looks fine...

He said the car had sat for a couple years, and wasn't even driven much before that, so I hope for his sake that the coolant is brown for some other reason... And that they can get things figured out before sundown.

Thankfully he had a few family members with him, so I think he'll be alright. But I am not so sure about the car.

Told him I'd suspect seal failures or head warpage, but hopefully it's "just" rust in the coolant from a corroded-to-shit radiator and previous driver neglect. I think based on the liquid that that he probably is out a head or head gasket though.

Also, all the belts I could see all looked quite scary/worn. I hope he didn't pay much for that thing... as nice as the body looks. And I hope the timing belt didn't slip.

Unfortunately his engine bay is a lot more intimidating than the little longitudinally mounted four-bangers I deal with.

Did I mention the Cadillac has no temperature gauge for the engine?

Maybe the bad coolant sitting in there for a year or two fucked the water pump... idk.

Everything non-mechanical in it looked gorgeous, so I hope they've got the wherewithal to either swap the engine or fix the current one. It's the first non-horrible looking caddy from that period i've seen in god knows how long.



I know he got to the gas station okay; I wish him godspeed.

Re: WRX:
Looks good. Though I will never understand why a used two-door WRX (pre-modding) should be $150,000 AUD. I guess it's just that beloved?

I know 90s subies are pretty much the best subies, though.
I still like the 360.

Anyone who buys one with the roll cage instead of rear seats is almost certainly not going to actually rally it. So assuming they aren't planning to ruin it, I think the rollcage must be entirely for show.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jun 27 2022, 03:10

I just realized my car is as old as Comiket. Built in late 1975.

The idea of them taking a 22b and making it even more insane makes me happy.

None of this BMW/Supra crap.

Except its the last WRX STI. The problem was that price of the STI was constantly going up whilst performance was going down.

Speaking of dropping performance, it's interesting looking at the specs of my car go downhill from 1975 through around 1984 (where it bottomed out and stayed). The driveshaft gearing dropped significantly. It was next to impossible to redline in my 1991 manual, but positively easy to do so accidentally in the '76, even with lower engine displacement.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Jul 6 2022, 13:56

So my engine was apparently running with no oil today.

Seems to be okay - caught it because the engine oil idiot light was blinking on momentarily when I accelerated. Should probably invest in an oil pressure gauge, though.

I had a jug of (sealed) SAE 5W30 oil in the trunk, so it's all good for the moment.

I wonder if it burned off or if I have bad seals. Haven't noticed an oil spot yet... So guessing it burned?

The head is cleaned off and silvery (unpainted aluminum), so I should hopefully be able to see if I have a bad head gasket leak at least. Took a couple months for the oil to burn off.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 2 2022, 02:46

Check the coolant to see if it's choccy milk.

If you're burning through that much oil it probably means your piston rings are done.

It could also be leaking out once the motor gets warm. So there might not be a puddle under your car.

So yeah, get an oil pressure gauge.

The valve seats may also be the culprit, but the car would be running like hammered shit if it was the problem.

Check for blue/grey smoke from your exhaust under acceleration.