[X] My Assistant

Copper not stainless?

Oh less common here as copper breaklines are banned but copper nickel alloy breaklines can be okay.

I have stainless braided lines.

It's an alloy of copper I cannot recall, looks more silver than pure copper but still readily bends and forms.

The job was surprisingly easy, minus one part. Ends of the brake hoses took 3/8 inverted flare. The master cylimder was 7/16 inverted flare. Had to hop on my bike for the first time in a long ass time to go get an adapter.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Jul 26 2021, 02:05

Whats the advantage of copper? I found the braided stainless steel performed well at 200km/h.

You realize the copper alloy is to replace the rusty steel hard lines, right? Doing away with hardline entirely in favor of braided hose doesn't make much sense to me.

The hoses I used were just Raybestos OE-replacements, reinforced rubber between chromed steel pipes. Fitting for a banjo bolt at the caliper, and one or two threaded ports for hard lines.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Jul 26 2021, 02:49

You realize the copper alloy is to replace the rusty steel hard lines, right? Doing away with hardline entirely in favor of braided hose doesn't make much sense to me.

The hoses I used were just Raybestos OE-replacements, reinforced rubber between chromed steel pipes. Fitting for a banjo bolt at the caliper, and one or two threaded ports for hard lines.

Stainless steel is different to steel lines

Like how the copper nickel lines are different to copper lines.


It seems the advantage of the stainless steel lines is puncture resistance.

Mild steel lines rust out.

Pure cooper lines are too prone to puncture.

The copper nickel is claimed to be best unless you over work it as it could crack then.

Stainless steel is different to steel lines

Like how the copper nickel lines are different to copper lines.
It seems the advantage of the stainless steel lines is puncture resistance.

Mild steel lines rust out.

Pure cooper lines are too prone to puncture.

The copper nickel is claimed to be best unless you over work it as it could crack then.

As anyone with a delorean will tell you, stainless steel isn't.

It's still better than regular steel, though.

Got my AC fixed, but had to pay a TIG welder to close up a hole in my AC line that my steering rack had rubbed through.

As anyone with a delorean will tell you, stainless steel isn't.

It's still better than regular steel, though.

Got my AC fixed, but had to pay a TIG welder to close up a hole in my AC line that my steering rack had rubbed through.

It gives me the shits when stainless steel rusts.

The braided stainless lines we have here have a teflon kevlar inner then braided steel and then possibly a rubber jacket.

About double the cost of copper nickel alloy lines. Seems to be because the code bans pure copper brake lines but does not specifically approve copper nickel alloy that people don't use it?

I think they are easier to install because they are flexible?

This post has been edited by EsotericSatire: Jul 26 2021, 06:43

I think they are easier to install because they are flexible?

Definitely can be, especially if the car's been crashed and things aren't lining up quite right.

There's another copper -ahem, copper nickel alloy to use it's proper name, line coming out the back of the little block
Nuts on the lines are steel, adapter is solid brass.

Need to finally get the front end of my bimmer fixed and order a couple of tires for it. The former needs to happen this weekend or thereabouts. I've been having so much trouble with the hood latches, I'm about to declare fuck it and install pins. It could also use some manner of tray for the battery, it's getting a bit soft back there and the hold-down snapped off.

Fuck the amount of salt used here.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Aug 3 2021, 15:42

Fuck the amount of salt used here.

Yet another reason to hate the state of Indiana. Just let us use studded tires and let the stupids die, for fuck's sake.

But nooo, they'd have to raise taxes to pay for additional roadwork if they did that while simultaneously reducing our ecological footprint.

My tailgate scares me sometimes (rusting pretty fast), but my rocker panels appear okay from the outside.

Clear coat's also failing on my car now. Always wanted to get it repainted so maybe if I can let all the clear coat peel off then it'll be easier to repaint (since I won't have to sand off anything). My paint colour was particularly prone to clear coat peel for whatever reason.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 3 2021, 16:43

Group 49/H8 is an uncommon battery it seems. One of the longest batteries and rather skinny. Can't find a tray, so I might screw something together out of angle aluminum.

This post has been edited by Wayward_Vagabond: Aug 4 2021, 13:54

As part of the giant Infrastructure Bill that went through the House and is now in the Senate to be voted upon in a few days, is a bill to require cameras be installed in cars to monitor the driver for drunk driving or other impairment (sleepy driver, distracted driver, etc). The cameras have enough resolution to track eyeball movements. As to what cars will do if impairment is detected has not been revealed.
[www.caranddriver.com] https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a29555598...-plan-revealed/

Debbie Dingell, a Michigan Democrat, released a statement that read: "We can't wait any longer to make our roads safer from drunk driving accidents." She went on to say, "The inclusion of my bill in the bipartisan infrastructure package will help incentivize the development and implementation of technology to stop drunk driving once and for all and save lives." Text of Debbie Dingell's addition to the Infrastructure Bill is from her official website:
[debbiedingell.house.gov] https://debbiedingell.house.gov/uploadedfil...kdrivingact.pdf

Ha, joke's on them, I will drive cars from the 90's and earlier until there are none left and I'm dead.

I hate almost everything about how modern cars drive when I get in one; I feel no connection to the road or the engine (and often can't even hear the engine to know how fast I'm going). Visibility is also fucking terrible.

Hope it doesn't pass, of course, but if they think I'm ever voluntarily going to get in a car like that they can think again. It's like asking me to put one of those "IOT" things like an Echo in my house - I'd rather saw my arm off.

Drove one of my parents' cars the other day; think it's a 2018 model or something. Absolutely horrible and it cost at least $45K. To make things worse, the 2004 they'd been driving before was functioning flawlessly and was still rust-free; they just wanted to upgrade for no fucking reason in a true showing of their boomer sensibilities.

Conspicuous consumption needs to die, but I don't think it will die with the boomers or even with my generation since we're so steeped in consumerism as a patriotic duty now.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 7 2021, 04:52

Ha, joke's on them, I will drive cars from the 90's and earlier until there are none left and I'm dead.

I hate almost everything about how modern cars drive when I get in one; I feel no connection to the road or the engine (and often can't even hear the engine to know how fast I'm going). Visibility is also fucking terrible.

My current car was designed to feel like the older generation but with newer tech. It drives better with ABS and traction control turned down to minimum. I am a little annoyed sometimes that it lacks all the digital do dads and features of most modern cars but there is less to go wrong.

On the flip side the engine and ECU require a professional to tune just with how complicated cars have become due to emissions, economy etc.

Hope it doesn't pass, of course, but if they think I'm ever voluntarily going to get in a car like that they can think again. It's like asking me to put one of those "IOT" things like an Echo in my house - I'd rather saw my arm off.

I concur I hate IOT devices. Its bad enough that I get ads based on what I post here.

Why do cars assume people want to lean way the hell back? I'm 5'8 and my head almost touches the roof of my 528i. If I have a hat on, it rubs slightly if I lean towards the door any.
My dad's '20 civic is the same way. It's even worse because the head rest isn't adjustable and just presses my neck forward.

Why do cars assume people want to lean way the hell back? I'm 5'8 and my head almost touches the roof of my 528i. If I have a hat on, it rubs slightly if I lean towards the door any.
My dad's '20 civic is the same way. It's even worse because the head rest isn't adjustable and just presses my neck forward.

while other things grew along with people getting taller on average, it really seems like cars havent at all.
I'm just over 6' and I cant sit comfortably in most vans, which you'd think would be made for construction workers and the overall bigger folk.

My dad's '20 civic is the same way. It's even worse because the head rest isn't adjustable and just presses my neck forward.

Funny, my head rest is so far back that my head never touches it.

Why do cars assume people want to lean way the hell back? I'm 5'8 and my head almost touches the roof of my 528i. If I have a hat on, it rubs slightly if I lean towards the door any.
My dad's '20 civic is the same way. It's even worse because the head rest isn't adjustable and just presses my neck forward.

My car has semi-bucket seats, but the head clearance is a bit of an issue sometimes. if I wear a hat it will nearly touch the roof.

So a motherfucking bee got into my car's fusebox and killed the fuse that gives me dashboard lighting. I suspect that it also killed the bulb failure relay. We'll see when it's daytime outside.

I have a parts car to pull another relay from, but it's pretty far away from where I live.

I'll be dealing with that and assessing further damage tomorrow. Noticed one of my tail lights actually did go out, so that's weird timing that I'll need to investigate, too.

I fucking hate bugs.

BTW, my car does not use blade-type fuses, it uses the old Bosch style that the type 1 volkswagens used.

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 20 2021, 03:37

Had a serpentine belt kek itself on my bimmer. Had to buy a serpentine belt tool, a socket set, an 1-1/2" extension, a pick, and a razor knife (plus both belts) to get it changed. I had to dig the strands of belt out from between and in the crank pulleys, and out of my fan clutch. I even found some stray strands in my headlight wiring. The belt did pop at 6500rpm though..

I lost a not-insignificant amount of a red fluid, though I don't know if it's power steering or transmission. Power steering resivoir level was fine, it still shifted and drove fine after I fixed the belts, and this morning.
Maybe the belt stopping then jamming and yanking the power steering pump, or me cranking on the steering against a locked pump made some splash out. It was even on top of the engine, where the resivoir is.

I don't have a tranny dipstick, but I'd think after 50 more miles driving and sitting overnight, I'd notice the gearbox acting weird by now if a line was damaged.

Gore:

This was before I found the stuff in the fan clutch, and litered about the engine bay.

The arcane belt routing I had to look up:

The loop back through the crank pully and water pump to the tensioner threw me off. The center tensioner will touch the eccentric idler pully if fully unloaded.

IDK if that's worse than mercedes vacuum hoses, but it's certainly not pretty.
German cars scare me.

Volkswagens scare me in a different way, of course, but they scare me all the same (unsafe and they burn oil when they are new).

This post has been edited by dragontamer8740: Aug 21 2021, 07:08